Kemuri Tatsu-ya
The official ramen of the Lone Star State.
GO HERE: to find out what happens when an izakaya (think Japanese pub) meets a Texas BBQ joint. Chefs Tatsu Aikawa and Takuya Matsumoto first won us over with steaming bowls of noodles at the nearby Ramen Tatsu-ya, a Top 50 restaurant in 2013, but Kemuri Tatsu-ya stands out for trailblazing new flavor combos.
ORDER THE: signature brisket-filled Texas ramen for an Austin-Tokyo mash-up that makes you wonder why someone didn’t think of it sooner. Ditto the “hot pocketz,” a kind of crispy sandwich involving fried tofu slices, gouda and, yes, more brisket. More adventurous palates will want to gravitate to chinmi (which in Japanese translates to “rare taste”). These include shiokKara (squid marinated in its own guts), crispy ray fin, and charred metaiko (salted cod roe). And, sure, you’ll have another Puff Puff Pass cocktail—it serves 2—3 people and involves sweet potato sochu, aged rum, and five spice bitters.
ASK ABOUT: the specials, or Kemuri-Osusume (“recommendations"). Some of the best things we ate came from this menu, including a rich crawfish chawanmushi (steamed egg custard) and “fries with eyes,” roe-filled smelt that are deep-fried.
THE VIBE IS: …remember the Double Deuce bar in Road House where Patrick Swayze played a bouncer? Kemuri Tatsu-ya feels like that but without all the fighting. It’s a lively, sometimes rowdy scene with good music. There are several bars, a screened-in patio, as well as outdoor seating—something for every type of diner.
GETTING IN: required a short wait every time we went (even late in the evening). Although they do take a few reservations each day, most of the tables are set aside for walk-ins. There’s a front bar outside, essentially built for those waiting, that guarantees you’ll have a good time even before you get seated.
