Avec
The brilliant Chicago restaurant that launched a thousand wood-burning ovens
Derek Richmond
You don’t go to Chicago and not eat at Avec. Paul Kahan and crew have been doing the open kitchen/communal table/shared plate thing since the dawn of time (okay, 2003), so let’s just say they’ve got the formula down. It starts with an elbow-to-elbow–packed shoebox of a space whose cedar-wrapped walls evoke a Zen sauna. The hits land one after the next: lush brandade with garlic bread, bacon-wrapped dates (you have to), and the always perfectly cooked whole-roasted fish. The night’s not over until your wine glass has hit at least half the countries on the Mediterranean.
PRO TIP: For all the food and none of the crowds, go for weekday lunch.
THE DETAILS: You can snag a seat via Reserve.
