Ancestrale
GO HERE: for affordable bites and natural wine from a trio of young industry vets (108 and Studio) in a tiny space in a trendy neighborhood.
ORDER THE: bread and cheese; potatoes with smoked hay powder; and bottles from from underground wine heroes like Gut Oggau, Frank Cornelissen, and Matassa. (There’s no wine list; choose a bottle from the back room or ask them for a glass of whatever’s open.) Each dish is ranges from $11 to $20—or order all from the very abbreviated weekly changing menu for $55—and there’s a daily happy hour, which offers a flight of three glasses for $16. After just a day in Copenhagen, this will feel miraculous.
THE VIBE IS: candlelit Danish living room.
PRACTICAL STUFF: Open Monday to Thursday, from 4 p.m. to 11 p.m., and Friday and Saturday, from 4 p.m. to midnight. Closed Sunday.
—Christine Muhlke
