The River Café
GO HERE: for the Sunday lunch of a lifetime. Ruth Rogers’s legendary Italian “canteen” in the hard-to-get-to Thames Wharf may be pushing 30, but it feels as vital as ever. The tables are filled with a who’s who of London’s most interesting people, who come regularly not only for the flawlessly simple, seasonal Italian food, but also for the impeccable service. Chances are high that the next April Bloomfield, Jamie Oliver, or Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall is in the kitchen right now. You might faint when you look at the prices (£20 pasta?), but have an Aperol spritz and persevere. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime meal.
ORDER THE: lasagnette with Ligurian pesto, any and all risottos, fritto misto, whole grilled Dover sole, all of the contorni, gelato, Chocolate Nemesis cake (obvi).
THE VIBE IS: knighted creatives. It was renovated five or so years ago, with zany colors in the perma-buzzing dining room.
PRACTICAL STUFF: Book a few weeks ahead, if possible. If visiting in summer, ask for a table outside. You know what’s indulgent and fun? Having a boozy lunch here on your way to Heathrow (you’re practically halfway there!). You’ll sleep all the way home. Open Monday to Thursday, 12:30 to 5 p.m. and 7 to 11 p.m. (11:20 on Saturdays); Sundays are lunch only from noon.
