Au Pied de Cochon
GO HERE: because Au Pied de Cochon is a temple of excess. Chef Martin Picard put Quebecois food on the map, and his nephew now runs the kitchen, but the near-religious devotion to gluttony still remains.
ORDER THE: tender duck magret, bechamel-covered tomato tart, lobster poutine (because if you must have poutine, this is the place), and the iconic Plogue à Champlain, a buckwheat pancake layered with melted cheese, roasted potatoes, bacon, and a quivering slab of seared foie gras finished off with a drizzle of maple syrup. For foie gras lovers, this is the top of the mountain: There’s a whole section devoted to it on the menu, and some of the perfectly cooked lobes are so large they can be carved like a roast.
THE VIBE IS: fun and lively, but with many diners focused on the serious food and wine, the decibel level stays reasonable. The staff is hospitable, knowledgeable, and proud to show off their native cuisine—keep an eye out for adept waiters nimbly preparing dishes tableside.
PRACTICAL STUFF: Open Wednesday to Sunday 5 p.m. to midnight. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays. Reservations recommended: For small parties of three or fewer, try to snag seats at the bar for a view into the kitchen. For larger parties, you’re better off taking the table in the back adjacent to the wine cellar with drying hams hanging among the bottles.
—Claire Saffitz
