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All roads (and great pét-nat) lead to this Saint-Henri wine bar
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Matthew Perrin

GO HERE: for a predinner pregame. Loïc is just up the street from Elena and a bit farther down from Arthurs Nosh Bar, so it’s worth stopping in for an early pét-nat and a better-than-it-needs-to-be bar snack.

ORDER: whatever visiting wine producer is pouring that night. For food, get the seafood platter, which is classic enough to satisfy and creative enough to impress; any of the pastas; or small snacks listed at the top of the menu.

THE VIBE IS: chill yet a tad reserved. The intimate space (read low ceilings) encourages that kind of zen-like atmosphere; this isn’t isn’t the place to rage.

PRACTICAL STUFF: Open Tuesday to Sunday 5 p.m. to 3 a.m., with the kitchen serving food until 11 p.m. Closed Mondays. Call for reservations, which are recommended.

—Claire Saffitz

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Matthew Perrin