Down a potholed industrial street in the Bywater neighborhood, you'll find a wood fence with "N7" stenciled on it in red ink. Behind that door is a weird and magical new world: a former tire shop turned bar, plastered with vintage posters and French maps. Named after the Route 66 of France (the N7), this transporting spot from filmmaker Aaron Walker and chef Yuki Yamaguchi is part roadside wine bar, part movie set. The menu leans French but gives longing nods to Japan, Yamaguchi's birthplace, in dishes like perfectly golden brown pommes frites made for dunking into velvety aioli, crispy-creamy escargot tempura, and crunchy pork katsu with tangy beet purée. In homage to the picnic food that Parisians might wash down with a glass of rosé on a Route nationale 7 pit stop, there's an extensive “Can to Table” section of the menu. Think outrageously flavorful lobster rillettes from France or calamari in spicy ragout from Portugal, served straight from the can. Chicken of the Sea this is not.
PRO TIP: The red 1972 Citroën parked outside is the same make of car as the one in which Charles de Gaulle's assassination was attempted. Just, you know, FYI.
THE DETAILS: Though the vibe is more bar than restaurant, N7 does close up at 10 p.m. Monday–Thursday and 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Closed Sundays.
