As Hawaii’s culinary traditions gain traction on the mainland, the 50th state’s favorite mystery meat is getting a chef makeover. "Growing up in Hawaii, Spam was everywhere—breakfast, lunch, and dinner," says Ravi Kapur, chef at Liholiho Yacht Club. "If Spam ever went on sale, the store would have to put a limit, 2 per customer, because people would buy up the whole stock."
Here are four dishes we loved this year:
Onomea, NYC
In this version of a classic Hawaiian dish, Spam Musubi, the luncheon meat is fried, then nestled between rice and wrapped in nori.
Noreetuh, NYC
Ground Spam is mixed with mascarpone and lemon zest before being stuffed into fresh pasta.
Liholiho Yacht Club, San Francisco
The tamari-glazed meat is a coveted off-menu item.
A-Frame, Los Angeles
Pork butt is brined, cured, ground, whipped, rolled, chilled, then seared.