If you're a regular reader, you know the Test Kitchen's go-to salt is Diamond Crystal kosher salt. But Fergus Henderson reminded us that there's more than one salt to crush on. The chef loves what coarse gray sea salt does for both his Roast Sirloin of Beef and Roast Bone Marrow with Parsley Salad. Gray sea salt, often labeled sel gris, gets its color from the mineral-packed, clay-bottom sea beds of the Atlantic coast of France, where it's harvested. Its slightly damp texture makes it ideal for seasoning roasts before searing. (It sticks!) And it's comparable in price to Maldon. Using it with marrow bones is a texture thing for Henderson: "Gray salt magically stays whole on the marrow," he says. "That salty crunch is vital." So use it whenever you're looking for an extra dose of minerality or texture; just don't put it in your salt mill--it'll clog it up. Instead, keep it in a snazzy salt cellar and pass at the table.
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Get the recipes: Roast Sirloin of Beef and Roast Bone Marrow and Parsley Salad
Get the full story: The Fantastic Mr. and Mrs. Henderson