Beetlebung Farm's Foraged Dinner Party, from Martha's Vineyard to Manhattan
Chef Chris Fischer of Beetlebung Farm on Martha's Vineyard is known for his aptitude for foraging. Foraging, or unearthing ingredients from the wild (milkweed from the farm's property, for example, which found its way onto our dinner plates), is most commonly thought of in terms of leafy green things. ("Edible weeds" is one way to describe it; we prefer "unexpected snacks.")
But as we learned at the BA Night Kitchen, when Fischer came to cook a dinner in celebration of the Beetlebung Farm Cookbook, foraging can happen with any ingredient—and just about anywhere. Take the cocktail hour crudo, for example. "I think it's sea bream," said Fischer, "It just looked the best and freshest in Chinatown this morning."
Martha's Vineyard boasts an insular farming community, and much of the meal came from Fischer's friends and neighbors: Yogurt from Mermaid Farm ("basically, two rad babes doing whatever they want," according to Olivia Pattison, Beetlebung's pastry chef), lamb raised by Chris' cousin, and the best local honey available.
At the end of the meal, our bellies were full, and so were our hearts. Fischer and his team packed their supplies; they were headed back to the Vineyard that very evening. It might have been the warm glow of the rosé, but we were so content that we almost—almost—snuck along with them. Get a bit of the community-minded magic in the pictures that follow. Warning: deliciousness ahead.
Alex Lau1/17We don't need an excuse to throw a dinner party, but this was a pretty good one. Available June 2nd, the Beetlebung Farm Cookbook is a collection of Fischer's and his team's best, brightest, and most-loved recipes.
Alex Lau2/17What do we have here? The makings of one dynamite appetizer, that's what. Braised duck, springy pesto, shiitake mushrooms grown with runoff water (making them more sustainably-farmed), and a tangle of thyme. And what became of this all? Read on…
Alex Lau3/17The cocktail hour included Prosecco, a faintly sweet cocktail made from Tito's vodka and rhubarb-infused simple syrup, and these beauties: Duck crostini. The bread was baked by Pattison, who maintains a levain starter ("I have to feed it at 9 tomorrow morning!" she said). The duck was locally raised and braised in a Dutch oven, and that pesto? Made from garlic chives and pea shoots, it packed a punch: Instead of olive oil, it was thinned with rendered duck fat. Don't forget the sautéed crispy shiitakes.
Alex Lau4/17Nick Morgenstern from New York City's Morgenstern's Finest Ice Cream came smart—he came hungry. "When are we eating?" he asked as the scent of garlicky shiitakes filled the room.
Alex Lau5/17There's that Chinatown fish, served on a cutting board, and without utensils. "At Beetlebung, everyone eats the snacks with their hands," explained Pattison. It was garnished with yellow broccoli rabe flowers, bronze fennel leaves, and bits of chive blossom.
Alex Lau6/17One fish, two fish…
Alex Lau7/17The first plated course was a celebration of all things green and springy. Overwintered asparagus from one of the farm's plots (named after Fischer's grandfather) was lightly cooked and layered with chervil, pea shoots, a garlic aioli, and a bright vinaigrette made with sweet crab meat.
Alex Lau8/17Dinner guest and photographer Daniel Krieger was off the clock, but he couldn't resist taking advantage of the kitchen's natural light. He snapped a few quick photos as Fischer finished sautéing a panful of greens.
Alex Lau9/17Before digging into the first course, BA editor-in-chief Adam Rapoport insisted everyone introduce themselves and explain how they were connected to the farm. There were a few nervous laughs, but learning names helped put everyone at ease and set a casual, interactive tone for the evening.
Alex Lau10/17Course number two: plump rope-grown mussels (from the Vineyard, of course) that were lightly steamed in a mushroom broth and served with green garlic, seaweed, and a strands of anise hyssop from the Mermaid Farm property.
Alex Lau11/17BA executive editor Christine Muhlke and artist Simone Shubuck.
Alex Lau12/17In between courses, guests stretched their legs. Rapoport and Hearth chef Marco Canora caught up before the last savory course.
Alex Lau13/17Let's talk about these lamb shanks, shall we? Raised by Fischer's cousin on compost from local restaurants, the lamb was marinated in Mermaid Farm yogurt, garlic, and onions, before being slow-roasted for hours. It was served with braised Chinese greens, carrots, small white beans ("they're similar to flageolet, but not quite the same," said Lauren Schaefer, who helped prep and plate the meal.)
Alex Lau14/17The lamb was garnished with stinging nettle chips. Although nettles are covered in prickly spears when raw, cooking them takes the edge off. To make the chips, Fischer placed them on a piece of oiled parchment paper on a sheet pan. They were covered with a second, oiled paper, then weighted down with a second pan and baked at 300˚ for about 7 minutes before being salted and letting cool.
Alex Lau15/17Schaefer was lending a helping hand in the kitchen. She currently cooks at NYC's El Rey, but she used to work right alongside Fischer and Pattison at Beetlebung. They're all great friends, and together, they make a great team.
Alex Lau16/17Dessert…number one! This panna cotta was made with cream that had been steeped with chamomile buds. Pattison heats is very slowly, until she can "just barely stick a finger in the pot," then lets it cool and strains out the flowers. It's thickened with gelatin and baked until set. On top? Chamomile pollen and a few leaves. "There's only a quarter-cup of sugar in the whole batch," explained Pattison. As a result, the natural sweetness of the cream and flowers really shone.
Alex Lau17/17And, for round two: The restaurant's famous honey pie. The shortbread crust contained a gooey filling of toasted almonds held together by a mix of ultra-reduced honey ("Use really good varietal honey," says Pattison, "because the flavors really come out when you concentrate it."), cream, and lightly-browned butter. On top? Unsweetened, cinnamon-flecked, hand-whipped cream.
