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First Person

Cofounder Othón Nolasco on the true meaning of hospitality.

Othón Nolasco, as told to Aliza Abarbanel

Chef-owners Tom and Mariah Pisha-Duffly loved Oma’s Takeaway, their restaurant’s pivot in response to COVID-19, so much they gave it its own permanent brick-and-mortar location.

Tom and Mariah Pisha-Duffly, as told to Woesha Hampson-Medina

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Anthony Salguero, chef-owner of Popoca in Oakland, is spreading the gospel of Salvadoran cuisine.
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Chef Parnass Savang grew up watching his parents simplify Thai food for American palates and promised himself that his own restaurant, Atlanta’s Talat Market, would never compromise. Then the pandemic hit.
Simileoluwa Adebajo started feeding the food insecure at her SF restaurant Eko Kitchen, and she's not going to stop even once the pandemic is over.

Simileoluwa Adebajo, as told to Brittany Hutson

Navigating a decades-long culinary career, Deborah VanTrece has encountered racism at nearly every turn. And she’s done keeping quiet about it.

Deborah VanTrece, as told to Hilary Cadigan

Neither COVID-19 nor the continued lynching of the Black body has stopped us from gathering—collectively separate.

Omar Tate

Chef Meherwan Irani remembers the real reason why he cooks.

Meherwan Irani

When I was growing up, these seaweed rice rolls symbolized how my family was different. Looking back, I think that’s what I appreciate most about them.

Jennifer Hope Choi

Micah’s Mixx started out as a homespun stand. Now it’s a booming business with plans to expand.

Micah Idris Harrigan, as told to Adam Erace

Sometimes it takes a ridiculous, hedonistic, emotionally fraught road trip across 19 states to figure out where you really are.

Hilary Cadigan

An organizer behind Portland, Oregon’s Riot Ribs on finding their volunteer-run, mutual-aid kitchen at the center of the city’s Black Lives Matter protests. 

As Told To Tuck Woodstock

On January 1st, I set out to write more, cook more, and eat better. But I never could’ve predicted...this.

Rachel Khong

For Roxane Gay, the victories of a quarantine kitchen are bittersweet.

Roxane Gay

From Clarendon County, South Carolina, to the Southside of Chicago, Howard Conyers, Ph.D, proves that cooking over fire is a roadmap to the past.

Howard Conyers, PhD, as told to Hilary Cadigan

Amid the protests in Minneapolis, Tomme Beevas has turned his restaurant into a hub for protection and supplies.

Tomme Beevas, as told to Stephanie March

Jeremiah Stone isn’t sure if his NYC restaurants will survive COVID-19. But he’s going to support the people protesting for George Floyd for as long as he can.

Jeremiah Stone, as told to Elyse Inamine

Minneapolis restaurant owner Louis Hunter wants justice for the Black community. “We have no peace.”

Louis Hunter, as told to Priya Krishna

How Tyler Kord juggles full-time parenting with running an emergency kitchen at Brooklyn’s No. 7.

Tyler Kord

Breaking fast alone is hard, but I’m finding solace in nostalgia.

Fariha Róisín

Who decided an economy-crushing, emotionally trying pandemic was a good time for self-improvement?

Josh Duboff

Katy's COVID-19 symptoms had me panic-buying bidets and sleeping with a hatchet. Then I remembered the kitchen.

Cameron Esposito

How holing up in a series of remote Airbnbs to work on her book reminded her why she writes in the first place.

Jia Tolentino