Welcome to the Bon Appétit Bake Club, a community of curious bakers. Each month senior Test Kitchen editors Jesse Szewczyk and Shilpa Uskokovic share a must-make recipe and dive deep into why it works. This month we welcome deputy food editor Hana Asbrink to be our guest baker. Come bake and learn with us—and don’t forget to join the Bake Club group chat over on Substack.
The version of this recipe that appeared in our November 2026 print issue has the incorrect bake time listed. The recipe that follows features the correct total bake times of 15–18 minutes (please see step 8).
Salt bread is a wondrous buttery roll known as shio pan in Japanese or sogeum ppang in Korean. It originated in Japan in 2014 and quickly became popularized in Korea soon thereafter, taking off in the post-Covid era around 2021. It’s formed by rolling each ball of dough around a nub of salted butter. As it bakes, the butter melts and oozes out of the bun, “frying” and crisping up the bottom. If you can imagine a warm dinner roll meeting a flaky croissant, you’re getting closer.
You’ll often find a range of salt bread, some leaning closer to sturdy bread with a tighter crumb and others resembling a softer milk bread. In all salt bread cases, there are a few key identifiers: (1) a deeply golden exterior, with the aforementioned crisp bottom; (2) the signature hollow in the middle (where the pat of butter once stood) when you tear the bun in half; and (3) a sprinkle of flaky or coarse salt atop the bun.
In this riff, I use an enriched dough, bringing in qualities of a soft milk bread into the mix. With the bread flour, the end result is a lovely, crowd-pleasing bun that’s great for snacking on its own or enjoying alongside a special holiday meal. If there’s one note to highlight: Ensure you are starting with a fresh pack of instant (or “rapid-rise”) yeast. This will make all the difference in the rise and the eventual yield.
Read More: BA Bake Club’s October Recipe Is the Best Dinner Roll We’ve Ever Made
Recipe information
Total Time
1 hour 30 minutes (plus 3 hours 30 minutes for resting)
Yield
12–16 servings
Ingredients
2
4
2
½
¼
1
1
1
Special Equipment
Need to make a substitution?
Preparation
Step 1
Stir 2 Tbsp. (16 g) flour and ½ cup water in a small skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium heat with a heatproof rubber spatula to combine and cook, stirring constantly, until thickened to the texture of mayonnaise, about 2 minutes; remove from heat. Add 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into small pieces and stir until melted. Transfer tangzhong to the bowl of a stand mixer.
Step 2
Add 2 large eggs, ½ cup whole milk, ¼ cup (50 g) sugar, 1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, and 1 ¼-oz. envelope instant yeast (about 2¼ tsp.) to tangzhong; stir vigorously by hand with rubber spatula until incorporated. Add remaining 4 cups (500 g) flour, attach bowl to stand mixer fitted with a dough hook or paddle, and mix on low speed until dough is smooth and soft (it may stick to bottom of bowl but should mostly clear sides), 20–25 minutes. Pinch off a small piece of dough and stretch it between your thumbs and index fingers on both hands. The dough should be able to stretch thin enough to let light through without breaking. If it tears, the gluten is not yet developed enough. Keep mixing until it can stretch; it may take up to 30 minutes.
Step 3
Transfer dough to a work surface (no need to flour) and shape into a ball. Lightly grease stand mixer bowl with vegetable oil. Return dough to bowl, cover tightly with a plate or plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm, draft-free spot until nearly doubled in size, about 2 hours. (For optimal flavor, let dough sit at room temperature 30 minutes, then cover tightly or transfer to an airtight container and chill at least 8 hours and up to 2 days to proof slowly.)
Step 4
Meanwhile, cut 1 cup (2 sticks) salted butter into 1-Tbsp. pieces and arrange in a single layer on a large plate or small baking sheet. Chill in freezer until ready to use.
Step 5
Transfer dough to a surface (no need to bring to room temperature before shaping if you chilled it). Using a bench scraper or paring knife, cut dough into 70–75 g portions (you’ll get 12–16 portions depending on how much your dough has risen). Working with 1 portion at a time, cup your hand over dough and drag across surface, moving your hand in a rapid circular motion to form into a tight ball (cold dough is easier to work with; rolling into balls on an unfloured, ungreased counter creates friction and helps the shaping process). Place on a baking sheet and cover with plastic wrap; let sit 15 minutes.
Step 6
Uncover dough (save plastic wrap) and, working one at a time, carefully roll each ball into a cone shape with your hands (you want them about 4" on the wider end). Return to baking sheet and re-cover with reserved plastic wrap. Let dough rest 15 minutes.
Step 7
Place a cone in front of you on surface with wider end facing toward you (keep remaining cones covered in plastic wrap). Lightly flatten with your palm, then roll out dough lengthwise to make an isosceles triangle about 12" long with a 3½"–4"-wide base (short side of triangle). Place 1 Tbsp. frozen salted butter at base of dough and roll up (not too tightly) like a croissant. Arrange, seam side down, back on baking sheet. Repeat with remaining cones and salted butter (you may not need all of the butter; save it for another use). Let rolls sit at room temperature until slightly puffed, about 1 hour.
Step 8
Place a rack in lowest position in oven; preheat to 425°. Remove plastic from rolls. Lightly mist rolls with water from spray bottle; sprinkle with flaky sea salt. Bake 10 minutes. Rotate baking sheet front to back and continue baking rolls until golden brown on top and bottom, 5–8 minutes more (keep an eye that they don’t burn). Remove from oven (there will be melted butter on baking sheet, so be careful) and, using a heatproof pastry brush, brush butter on baking sheet over rolls. Let rolls cool at least 10 minutes before serving.
Do Ahead: Rolls can be baked 2 hours ahead. Store at room temperature.