For most Americans a glass of crystal clear eau-de-vie is a dicier order than a familiar Negroni or a tried-and-true Sauvignon Blanc. The curiously boozy brandy remains a relatively niche serve, even as drinkers have largely embraced the ritual of ending their meals with other digestifs like Chartreuse and amaro.
“It’s often relegated to a section of the menu where guests just have to be introduced to it,” says Jill Mott, director of wine at The Carlyle in New York City, which offers several eaux-de-vie at Dowling’s restaurant and Café Carlyle. Mott likes to treat guests who seem keen on cognac or Armagnac to a taste to pique their interest. The process to make eau-de-vie, which tastes like the purest expression of its core ingredient, is simple. Producers crush fruit or vegetables harvested at peak ripeness to ferment the sugars into alcohol. That mixture is distilled to concentrate the alcohol levels and aromas in the final product, which rests in glass or steel (not oak) to further allow the flavors to meld.
While most beverage pros compare eau-de-vie to brandies like Armagnac and cognac, Nicolas Palazzi, chief growth officer at importer PM Spirits, sees American whiskey as an unexpected introduction. “American whiskey is typically a big punch in the face of coconut and cinnamon, and once drinkers have been there and done that, they look for more complexity and elegance,” says Palazzi, whose company imports more than five eaux-de-vie from around the world. “That leads them to brandy, and then, their palate will be more open to get into eau-de-vie.”
Whether you’re looking for your own introductory eau-de-vie, or feel ready to splurge on a
less traditional expression, these three bottles show off the breadth of flavor the spirit can offer.
Reisetbauer Carrot
With unexpectedly sweet tropical fruit notes like mango, papaya, and pineapple, you’ll have to reread the label to confirm that, yes, this eau-de-vie is made with carrots, not apples, raspberries, or any other fruit that typically finds itself in a pastry case.
Branchwater Black Currant
The Hudson Valley is home to some of the most interesting fruit brandies on the market today, and this black currant bottling is an outstanding example. Expect tangy acidity balanced with a warm rolling sweetness and the tart, almost-earthy essence of black currant.
Rochelt Wachau Apricot
Juicy, jammy, and floral, this celebration of apricot has an unmistakable undercurrent of baking spice that makes it perfect for finishing off a big dinner. Rochelt’s eaux-de-vie boasts an impressive nine years of maturation, so save this one for the big milestones.