Loyal Nine
Of all the food trends that make the rounds, “colonial New England” is one that hasn’t quite stuck—perhaps due to the general understanding that the food scene was not very awesome for the Puritans. But at Loyal Nine, an ethereal space away from the main drag in East Cambridge, colonial cuisine is beautiful, satisfying, even modern. The ceramics, handmade by the owner in faded Yankee seashore colors, come bearing herby fried soldier beans you’ll want at every cocktail party, molasses-glazed pork ribs, and—a must-order—a thick slab of brown bread laden with pickled bluefish, cultured cream, and shaved radishes. The menu advertises dishes like pondamnast (savory porridge), sallet (a bundle of lettuce and goat cheese tied in a scallion), and pease porridge (the split-pea stew of nursery rhyme fame). It’s hard to imagine the colonial settlers eating this well, but when history comes served on a pewter platter, with a dozen oysters and a lemon verbena vinaigrette, romanticizing the past feels pretty delicious.
PRO TIP: For $50 a person, the chef will rain family-style share plates upon the table in what may be the best tasting-menu deal in the city. Want to keep it simpler? The adjoining café is open daily until 4 p.m. for expertly pulled coffee and fresh-baked pastries. (The reason the chocolate chip cookie is so good? Lard.)
THE DETAILS: Open 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily; dinner Tuesday to Thursday, 5:30 to 11 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5:30 p.m. to 1 a.m.; Sunday, 5:30 to 9 p.m.
