St. John Maltby
Want a messy doughnut? Thought so.
Photo by Yuki Sugiura
GO HERE: to treat your hangover right. On weekends, this bare-bones St. John outpost set under a railway arch serves brilliant custard- and jelly-filled brioche doughnuts (and other food, too).
ORDER THE: donuts, after a bacon sandwich—bacon, butter, bread, full-stop—and may we recommend a glass of house Champagne? Also of interest: Welsh rarebit, potted hare and pork, braised rabbit with mustard and crème fraîche.
THE VIBE IS: busy and groggy. The food stalls that set up on this street on weekends can be intense to weave through, but it’s worth it.
PRACTICAL STUFF: Reserve online if you’re that organized. Hours vary daily, so check before you go. And don’t get a doughnut to go unless you plan to eat it within the hour—they don’t travel well.
