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Bar La Faena

Time moves slowly at this midcentury cantina that doubles as a bullfighting museum
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Photo by Jake Lindeman

GO HERE: for a genuine old-school experience in the historic city center, with a side of bullfighting history. The cavernous space—opened in the ’60s—is also a bullfighting museum, with vintage posters and paintings and acrylic cases housing well-worn costumes from famous matadors.

ORDER THE: good tequila and cheap beer, and lots of it. Complimentary botanas increase in quality and quantity with each round of drinks, and you won’t want to miss the mashed-potato tacos dorados that eventually arrive.

THE VIBE IS: like an earthquake-damaged ballroom turned into an eerie cafeteria, with decaying fixtures, Mexican oilcloth on rickety tables, and often a mariachi band. It’s heaven.

PRACTICAL STUFF: Hours can vary, but it usually opens around 11 a.m. and closes around 11 p.m.

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Photo by Jake Lindeman