Russ & Daughters
The earth spins at a thousand miles an hour, but inside Russ & Daughters, time stands still. A vestige of the era when "appetizing shops" were commonplace on the Lower East Side, this century-old institution is now one of the last smoked-fish peddlers standing. The ambience is one of hushed reverence, as the white-jacketed staff—some of whom have been behind this counter for decades—slice gorgeous fillets of delicate Gaspe salmon and salty belly lox into strips so thin you can, as it’s famously described, read the New York Times through them. This is the place to pick up an unforgettable brunch spread or the quintessential bagel sandwich. For all this plus actual chairs and tables, be sure to check out the two Russ & Daughters cafés, one nearby on the LES and the other at the Jewish Museum on the Upper East Side.
PRO TIP: The weekend and holiday lines are themselves legendary. Join the throngs, or opt for a calm weekday morning. Lunch is almost always busy; at dinnertime, you practically have the place to yourself.
THE DETAILS: Monday to Friday, 8 a.m.–8 p.m; Saturday, 8 a.m.–7 p.m.; Sunday, 8 a.m.–5:30 p.m.
Note: These photos are from the Russ & Daughters café in the Lower East Side.