Wildair
From the street, Wildair looks like another thrown-together Lower East Side watering hole. Once you’re inside, you realize it’s one of the most interesting places to eat and drink right now. The super-natural wine list is a symphony of funk. It’s all obscure, so tell the somm what you like and let him be your guide. You could easily come here just to drink...if the food weren’t so ridiculously good. Chefs Fabian von Hauske and Jeremiah Stone send out smallish dishes that are less cerebral than at their neighboring restaurant, Contra, but no less considered. The requisite beef tartare is served with smoked aged cheddar, horseradish, and sometimes even microplaned chestnut. At a time when every trendy New York restaurant seems to have its own raw-beef riff, Wildair’s version is somehow more perfect than the last 12 beef tartares you’ve eaten.
PRO TIP: Always. Order. Dessert. Especially if that peanut butter tart is on the menu.
THE DETAILS: Closed Sunday and Monday. No reservations. Don’t go with more than four people: The seating means you’ll never see or hear them.
