Coquine
What makes a great neighborhood restaurant? Well, there has to be not-too-complicated, always satisfying food—the kind you can eat three nights a week and never get tired of. This is precisely the type of cooking that comes naturally to Coquine chef Katy Millard, who serves a juicy roast chicken family-style and prepares rustic craveable pastas, like curlicues called girella, coated with milk-braised pork ragù and topped with bits of crunchy fried sunchoke. The food also must be served in a comfortable room, like this corner space, decorated in the subtle earth tones and woven tapestries that tend to show up in the homes of people who’ve lived in Portland a long time. In a truly ideal scenario, the homey food and room are rounded out by a surprisingly ambitious wine list, and here that is most certainly the case, thanks to Millard’s husband, Ksandek Podbielski, who oversees the fun, funky, but still super-friendly selection. Finally, the best neighborhood restaurants give off something intangible: a gracious warmth that doesn’t so much welcome you as welcome you back. Welcome back to Coquine. PRO TIP: Coquine is known for its chocolate chip cookies, which can be ordered in advance by the dozen to take home at the end of the meal. THE DETAILS: Closed for dinner Mondays and Tuesdays. Reservations recommended.
