Miles Thompson, SHED Restaurant, Healdsburg

The halibut is brined briefly in salt water, which seasons it all the way through.

These get better with time, so don’t hesitate to make them ahead.

Membrillo lends subtle sweetness to the dressing; look for it at any well-stocked cheese counter.

Rolling out the dough between sheets of parchment paper means it won’t stick to your pin or tear.

Roasting the pancetta in one large piece renders out most of the fat, making it easy to dice into perfect ¼" pieces.

Saba is wine-grape juice that’s been reduced until syrupy and concentrated. If you can’t find it, use a few drops of aged balsamic vinegar.

The pickled hard-boiled eggs are a great snack on their own—they’re sold individually at Shed in Healdsburg, California.