There Will Be Meat: Cooking at a Lodge in the Montana Mountains
What happens when an artisan butcher and a cook committed to all things DIY get together with friends at a cabin in the Montana mountains? Well, besides plenty of beer drinking, there's bound to be some great food. Brad Leone, BA's test kitchen manager, recently set off for a week-long stay at a dream home in the town of Red Lodge with his good friend Brian Merkel, head butcher at San Francisco's Belcampo. Click through for a glimpse into their epic (meat-filled) weekend—and to pick up a Leone's and Merkel's best tips for cabin cooking on vacation.
1/12If you're planning on cooking while on vacation, you're going to need a plan for hauling all the goods to your lodge. Because their digs were situated two miles off the Beartooth Highway, Leone and crew used this Argo ATV to pull a sled jam-packed with meat, grains, legumes, beans, and more. (Oh, and a few kegs for good measure). No all-terrain vehicle handy? A securely-packed suitcase on the rack on your car will probably suffice. Don't forget the ice packs to keep the perishables cool.
2/12For great home-cooked meals, you need more than just salt and pepper. Leone packed his favorite spices (including homemade garlic powder, togarashi, dried mushrooms, dulse seaweed, and kombu powder) in durable plastic pint takeout containers.
3/12Store-bought stock? Not for these guys. They roasted chicken feet before simmering them into a golden, gelatinous stock. For the record, Leone prefers to make stock with both chicken bones and feet, but hey: When you're roughing it, sacrifices must be made. The resulting stock isn't just good for soups and stews. Add a tablespoon of miso to a hot mug of it in the morning for a steamy alternative to coffee and tea.
4/12Leone and Merkel were cooking for as many as 12 people (plus a child and a dog), so they brought in the big guns. Much of the meat, including mutton, sausage, and grass-fed Wagyu/Angus beef, was butchered by Merkel at Belcampo. Venison and elk were shot on the property by the caretaker. The pièce de résistance? A 250-pound wild boar killed and dressed by Merkel near San Francisco. The pig had been feasting on wild grapes. You'll note that the meat is all vacuum-sealed—Leone says it's helpful in keeping it fresh, and saving freezer and fridge space.
5/12The best part about cabin cooking is that breakfast tends to magically "happen" with last night's leftovers. Here, Leone crisped braised rabbit with some potatoes before cracking backyard eggs into the pan. The no-recipe-required hash was finished in the oven and served family-style. This would also work like a charm with roasted chicken or shredded slow-cooked pork.
6/12Moose crossing: Now that's Montana.
7/12An insulating layer of snow around the kegs kept them cool. If the temperatures are above freezing but still chilly, you can free up fridge space and store your beers outside. (Well, that's one good reason to appreciate winter).
8/12Frankly, we're surprised Leone even came back to work.
9/12To keep things informal when cooking for a crowd, Leone and Merkel made a big pot of chili with venison, elk, boar, and beef. Separately-cooked farro was added to the bowl first (that way, every diner was assured a heaping scoopful), and the stew got spooned over. Let friends and family dress up their own bowls with fresh herbs, cheese, and the like.
10/12Use countertops to your advantage, and set up a DIY buffet (dirty dishes can get stashed in the sink until after dinner). Here, guests dug into grilled zucchini with togarashi; broiled asparagus seasoned with Aleppo pepper; a Swedish brown bean purée with white wine, leeks, and garlic, and topped with a homemade garlic-herb olive oil.
11/12A mixed-grill is a great way to feed a crowd: A few simple salads and sides, and an awesome assortment of meats cooked over charcoal. The guys seared tri-tip, rib eye, boar chops, and a rack of mutton (pictured), before finishing them in the 425˚ oven. Starting the meat over charcoal imbues it with a smoky, campfire flavor, and the oven finishes cooking them evenly while ensuring they don't become too charred.
12/12Bottoms up. Merkel (left) and Leone enjoy a well-deserved brew from down the road. One last tip: Seek out area breweries and drink local.
