10 Things You’ve Gotta Know About Eggs
Eggs are an ingredient with superpowers: They’re versatile, adaptable, and transformative, all contained in little packages. But how much do you really know about that carton in your fridge?
Did you know, for example, that the hue of the eggshell—white, blue, green, or, the most common, brown—is determined by the breed of hen it came from (and you can predict it by the color of the hen’s earlobe)?
Or that the color of the yolk varies based on the hens’ diet?
Or that the best place to store your eggs is not on the side of the refrigerator door, which is the warmest part of your fridge? To extend the lifespan of your eggs, place them on a shelf inside the fridge, where temperatures are cooler, and keep them in their carton, which helps protect them from drying out. (If you’re wondering why eggs in the U.S. have to be refrigerated when eggs in some other parts of the world do not, it’s because American eggs are washed before they’re sold, which removes the protective cuticle that would keep them safe at room temp.)
We’re cracking eggs open, from how to buy them to how to cook them, below.
Photo by Emma Fishman1/10Here’s how to make sense of the words on the carton.
If you think the periodic table is confusing, take a look at the egg carton labels of your local grocery store. So many words! So many symbols! Some of which are intended to confuse you! And why are some cartons $2 a dozen and others $8? We’re breaking down the terms and separating the meaningful stuff from the riffraff.
Photo by Emma Fishman, Food Styling by D'mytrek Brown2/10Fresh is best.
Younger eggs are tighter, with taut whites and tall yolks. Fresh eggs are also easier to fry (the whites stay put and the yolks, sitting high above the heat, are more likely to remain runny), to poach (the whites eagerly coalesce around the yolks), and to boil—you’re less likely to get green-gray rings, lopsided yolks, or flat ends. (Caveat! Older eggs, however, will be easier to peel.) At the store, your best bet is to look for the expiration date furthest in the future.
If you come across a mystery egg and you want to know its age, put it in a bowl of water: If it’s buoyant, it’s old (though it’s probably fine to eat unless it has an off odor). When in doubt, go to the farmers market, where there are fewer middlemen between you and the hens.
Photo by Emma Fishman, Food Styling by D'mytrek Brown3/10Salt before you scramble.
To ensure your eggs are uniformly seasoned and as soft and luscious as possible, add salt when you whisk them together, not when they’re in the pan or on the plate. According to food scientist J. Kenji López-Alt, salt inhibits the proteins in the eggs from binding too tightly as they heat up, which means your scramble will have a moister, more tender curd and be less likely to weep. In an ideal world, you’d incorporate salt 15 minutes before you start cooking so the granules can dissolve into the mix, but even a minute can make a difference.
Photo by Emma Fishman, Food Styling by D'mytrek Brown4/10There’s more than one way to fry.
Anyone who claims they know the right way to fry an egg is LYING. The truth is, there’s a fried egg for any occasion and any mood. Here are five of our favorites:
- If you’re craving spice: A smart trick from the chefs at Canal House. Coat the bottom of a pan with olive oil and set over medium-high. When oil is warm, add ground or crushed spices—paprika, turmeric, black pepper—and crack in eggs. Spoon the infused oil over the whites, avoiding yolks, until cooked.
- If you want toast but only have crumbs: Inspired by a famous Zuni Café dish. Toast fresh breadcrumbs (fine or coarse) in butter or oil over medium heat until golden brown, then make a shallow space for your egg and fry it until whites are opaque. Flip it over easy if you want, then drizzle with a tiny bit of white wine vinegar.
- If you need something soft and gentle: Melt 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter over low heat. Crack in an egg, cover the pan, and wait for the whites to set, the yolk to cloud over, and the butter to brown slightly, about 3 minutes. Slide egg and drippings onto a bowl of rice or noodles or atop avocado toast; drizzle with soy sauce if you like.
- If you live on the edge: Add plenty of olive oil to a nonstick or cast-iron skillet, then heat over high until oil shimmers. Crack in an egg, reduce heat to medium-high, and stand back—the egg will sputter. Cook, basting the whites with the pooling oil, until whites are opaque and bottom is crisp and brown, 1–2 minutes.
- If richness is what you seek: To make Ideas in Food’s Caramelized Cream Eggs, pour a shallow layer of heavy cream into a nonstick skillet, then crack in as many eggs as will fit. Set the heat over medium-high and wait for the cream to sputter and boil. When the egg whites are nearly set and the cream has bubbled away, remove from heat and cover for 1 minute to finish cooking.
Photo by Travis Rainey, Prop Styling by Linden Elstran5/10If you love eggs, you need a nonstick pan.
Its slick surface is essential for soft scrambles, seamless over-easies, smooth Japanese tamago, custardy frittatas, and fried eggs that are crispy but not glued to the surface. If you have to choose just one size, go with the versatile 10" pan.
Photo by Emma Fishman, Food Styling by D'mytrek Brown6/10“Room temperature” is not just a cute suggestion.
If a recipe calls for room temp eggs, it’s for good reason: Cold eggs, while useful in certain instances, won’t gain as much volume or homogenize as readily, which can result in squat cakes and lumpy, curdled batters. So if you can’t spare an hour for your eggs to lose their chill, don’t skip the step—take a shortcut:
- Place your eggs in a bowl or quart container.
- Fill the bowl with hot water from your tap (it shouldn’t be boiling, for obvious reasons).
- While you prep your other ingredients, let your eggs temper. They’ll need at least 5 minutes.
Photo by Emma Fishman, Food Styling by D'mytrek Brown7/10Climb the peaks!
When whisked vigorously, the proteins in egg whites denature and form new bonds, creating a tight network where air is trapped. These bubbles bring lift and lightness to mousses, chiffon cakes, and meringues. But it’s not all fancy desserts: Whipped whites offer height to pancakes and waffles and can turn a regular omelet into an omelet soufflé. To whip whites successfully, follow these tips.
Photo by Emma Fishman, Food Styling by D'mytrek Brown8/10Marinate them.
Soak boiled eggs in a flavor-packed solution to season them more thoroughly than a simple sprinkling of salt ever could. It’s the principle behind pickled eggs, tea eggs, and soy eggs, which are classic as Korean banchan and a nice addition to saucy noodles or ramen.
Photo by Ted Cavanaugh9/10Bring on the boil.
For something that seems so simple (eggs + water), boiling eggs can be surprisingly frustrating—especially when it comes to the peeling. For eggs with yolks set to your liking and unblemished, pearly exteriors, follow these guidelines.
10/10When it comes to baking, large is in charge.
You may like a jumbo egg for your breakfast sandwich (the bigger the better?), but stick to large when you’re making cookies, cakes, and custards. Most baking recipes are developed with large eggs, so switching up the size could mess up the texture and flavor of your final product. This is especially important in recipes that call for a lot of eggs (3-plus), as well as desserts that rely on their structure (sponge cake, meringue, lemon curd) and/or flavor (ice cream, flan, crème brûlée). In less sensitive desserts—say loaf cakes or chocolate chip cookies—switch between egg sizes but at your own risk: You’ll still get a cake or a cookie, but it might not be quite what the recipe developer intended.
