Make the Most of Allium Hype—Er, Season—With These 5 Recipes
Perhaps you’re familiar with the craze: Swarms of chefs going AWOL to forage for ramps. Farmers’ market–goers elbowing each other to get to the piles of bulbs and greens. It’s been going on for years. But what’s all the fuss? Alliums bring complexity and backbone to pretty much everything they touch. And when they’re briefly in season—right NOW—it’s a good time to jump on these fragrant vegetables. Charring leeks until they’re smoky-sweet. Slow-roasting green garlic until jammy and tender. These five recipes from Andy Baraghani make the case: Alliums really are worth the hype.
Photo by Alex Lau, food styling by Susie Theodorou, prop styling by Elizabeth Jaime1/5Scallion Pancakes With Chili-Ginger Dipping Sauce
Photo by Alex Lau, food styling by Susie Theodorou, prop styling by Elizabeth Jaime2/5Charred Leeks With Honey and Vinegar
Ah, the gentle giants of the allium clan. Look for leeks with long white bulbs and stalks with green leaves. In this recipe, don’t be afraid to take the leeks to the point where they almost look burnt. A well-charred exterior means the interiors will be creamy, soft, silky, and delightfully sweet. It's all about the technique—and once you learn it, you’ll be doing it over and over again.
Photo by Alex Lau, food styling by Susie Theodorou, prop styling by Elizabeth Jaime3/5Green-Garlic-Rubbed Buttery Roast Chicken
Roasting a whole chicken quickly at high heat is optimal for the crispiest skin but risks overcooking the meat. This method of going low and slow is much gentler on the meat, keeping it juicy yet shreddable underneath skin that crackles. The green garlic has a mild, fresh flavor (much less bite than regular garlic, but you can use that here too). As the chicken cooks, the green garlic dries out and turns into a crispy crumb topping.
Photo by Alex Lau, food styling by Susie Theodorou, prop styling by Elizabeth Jaime4/5Shrimp Ramp-y
The name says it all. Shrimp with a garlicky, pungent, buttery scampi sauce. The combination of garlic and ramps may seem like overkill, but we promise it’s not. The garlic will mellow as it cooks while the ramps stay pungent. We tried it without the garlic and it just wasn’t as good. Sometimes more is more.
Photo by Alex Lau, food styling by Susie Theodorou, prop styling by Elizabeth Jaime5/5Ramen Noodles With Spring Onions and Garlic Crisp
When it comes to spring onions, look for firm white bulbs with sturdy greens that stand upright. And with garlic, grab a head and give it a sniff. Good garlic smells earthy, whereas a garlicky aroma is a sign of bruising. This recipe is a slight twist on scallion noodles: the same savory, lip-smacking flavor but instead of wilting the scallions in the sauce, we crisp them up in the pan, creating a crunchy, spicy, garlicky topping.
