Castelvetrano Olive

Dress just before serving so that the fennel will still be crunchy and the melon retains its juices.

Most 1”-thick pieces of fish will cook in 30 minutes. If the fish is done before you're ready to sit down, simply turn off the oven—it will hold. If it isn't quite ready when you are, crank up the heat to 350° and it'll finish quickly.

In January 2010, the owners of Perbacco in the city's Financial District transformed a nearby deli into Barbacco Eno Trattoria, a casual spot inspired by a trattoria on Italy's Ligurian coast. Order a glass of wine and these incredible stuffed olives at the marble bar—and prepare to be transported.