A16 and SPQR, San Francisco
WHAT: Tutto Calabria chiles; $9 for 10
ounces; 415-921-7873 or lucadeli.com.
WHY: "For mild spice with an underlying sweetness and
acidity."
HOW: Chopped, in vinaigrettes, soups, potatoes, stews, tuna
conserves, and even chocolate budino. Also good deep-fried.
P*Ong and Batch, New York
WHAT: Farmstead milk from Manhattan
Milk (an Amish farm cooperative); $5 per quart; 917-388-2713 or manhattanmilk.com for stores.
WHY: "For rich, almost beefy flavor that gives desserts a
full, savory overtone."
HOW: Puddings, frostings, cakes, ice milk, mousses
Spring Restaurant, Green Zebra, and Custom
House, Chicago
WHAT: Yuzu juice, from the rare and aromatic
Japanese citrus fruit; $12 for 4 ounces; 866-765-2433 or chefsresource.com.
WHY: "It adds a floral quality, multiple citrus flavors, and
depth."
HOW: Sauces and sashimi-type dishes
Annisa and Bar Q, New York
WHAT: Healthy Boy Soy Sauce with Mushroom; $4
for 24 ounces; 877-811-8773 or templeofthai.com.
WHY: "Just a little rounds out a one-dimensional dish. But
add
too much, and it ends up tasting like mushrooms and soy sauce."
HOW: Stir-fries, meat braises, and soups
Highlands Bar and Grill, Bottega, and Chez
Fonfon, Birmingham, Alabama
WHAT: [Sorghum syrup](http://muddypondsorghum.com/?mainURL=/store/category/c0v4/Muddy_Pond_Sor
ghum.html); $5 per pint;
931-445-3589 or muddypondsorghum.com.
WHY: "A cross between molasses and maple syrup, it gives a
funky, southern sweetness and a touch of bitter, too."
HOW: Pan sauces, vinaigrettes, and reductions
The Slanted Door, San Francisco
WHAT: Three Crabs Fish Sauce; $7 for 24
ounces; 888-618-8424 or importfood.com.
WHY: "It adds briny body, which is essential to Vietnamese
cooking. The sauce is rounder than others and also has a subtle
sweetness."
HOW: Stir-fries and Asian noodle dishes
WD50, New York
WHAT: Preserved lemons $14/16 oz.; kalustyans.com
WHY: "For dishes that need harmony, they add a bittersweet
and salty quality."
HOW: Shrimp rolls, onion relish, and lots else
Cochon, New Orleans
WHAT: Lightly smoked slab bacon. Link makes his
own, but we like Neuske's; $23.50/3 lb.; neuskes.com
WHY: "To scent a dish with richness, pork flavor, and salt.
Down here, it's a flavoring, just like onions, celery, or carrots."
HOW: Shell beans, green beans, and spoonbread
Komi, Washington, DC
WHAT: Volcanic sea salt flakes from Cyprus; $8/1
oz.; salttraders.com
WHY: "It adds a layer of texture, in addition to salinity,
and the black crystals make for a dramatic presentation."
HOW: Raw fish, grilled dishes with fresh citrus
Le Bernardin, New York
WHAT: Sitia 0.3 olive oil; $14/750ml; sitiaonline.com
WHY: "It adds richness but isn't acidic; it's floral but not
bitter."
HOW: All raw fish dishes, emulsions, dressings, and fish
confits
Fearing's, Dallas
WHAT: A kitchen sink pepper mix that he makes himself: White
pepper, black pepper, Spanish paprika, Hungarian paprika, garlic powder, ancho
chiles, habanero powder, guajillo, and smoked sea salt, to name a few.
WHY: "I'm addicted to the stuff; it adds big, deep flavor."
HOW: Grilled fish, grilled steak, sautéed vegetables,
roasted pork and chicken
Tartine Bakery, San Francisco
WHAT: Fresh lemon juice
WHY: "It makes the caramel taste more caramely, but not in a
lemony way. And it keeps cooked sugar from getting grainy."
HOW: Anything with caramel
Mélisse, Santa Monica
WHAT: Banyuls vinegar, a mellow French vinegar,
$20/16 oz.; igourmet.com
WHY: "It's not too acidic and adds nice roundness."
HOW: Potato gnocchi, bean and pasta soup, or sauces
Stephan Pyles, Dallas, TX
WHAT: Aji Mirasol, a dried yellow chile;
$2.25/oz.; worldspice.com
WHY: "It adds earthy-smoky flavor, a little bit of spice, and
always keeps people guessing."
HOW: Lobster ceviche, smoked tomato bisque, vinaigrettes
Le Pigeon, Portland
WHAT: La Vecchia Special Reserve 30-year old aged
balsamic vinegar, $50/3 oz.; zingermans.com
WHY: "Acidity and sweetness."
HOW: In salads and drizzled on grilled meats, right before
serving
Orson, San Francisco
WHAT: Cardamom
WHY: "For warm, peppery spice that's much more exotic than
just pepper."
HOW: Shortbread cookies, spice cookies, and anything
chocolate
Restaurant Eugene, Atlanta
WHAT: Cultured Butter; $4.50/lb.; butterandcheese.net for stores
WHY: "Luxurious flavor and texture, along with a slightly
sour flavor that counters the richness."
HOW: Added at the last moment to tomato soup, pasta, peas, or
reduced chicken stock for a sauce
HotChocolate, Chicago
WHAT: Raw Orange Blossom Honey, $31/3 16 oz.
jars; foodlocker.com or Whole Foods
WHY: "I can infuse it with additional flavors, but it's a way
more interesting sweetness than sugar syrup. And it's natural."
HOW: Breads, sorbets, fruit poaching liquid, fruit tart
glazes
Restaurant Eugene, Atlanta
WHAT: Steen's Cane Syrup, $6.60/16 oz.; cajunsupermarket.com
WHY: "Rich amber color and subtle caramel flavor."
HOW: Duck marinade, pork belly glaze onion dressing for
pulled pork sandwiches
Flour Bakery + Café, Boston
WHAT: Vanilla sugar (Easy to make at home: bury a spent
vanilla pod in a
container of sugar)
WHY: "It makes flavors better and rounder but doesn't pound
you over the head. It's good in coffee, too."
HOW: Muffins, cakes, lemon curd, pudding, crème
brulée
Lucia's, Minneapolis
WHAT: Dried apricots
WHY: "To add sweetness and wake up the flavor of root
vegetables."
HOW: Diced, in purees and soups with rutabagas, sweet
potatoes, and carrots
Canteen, San Francisco
WHAT: Vanilla crystals, $6/.6 oz.; kalustyans.com
WHY: "It richness without being buttery and is especially
good at bridging root vegetables and shellfish."
HOW: Onion purees; anything with root vegetables
Redd, Yountville, CA
WHAT: Dulce de Leche (the Latin American answer
to condensed milk); $3.79/8 oz; amigofoods.com
WHY: "It makes ice cream dense and chewy and keeps crystals
from forming. And it gives extra body to cream fillings."
HOW: Ice creams; cream fillings