there's a lot to
be done. Prep the food. Stock the bar. Set the tables. Eat. At most
restaurants (and at all ten listed here), that pre-service meal is called
family meal. Why? Because the intense pressure of the restaurant world turns
coworkers into family.
Much like an actual family does, the employees sit down, eat, and catch up
over dinner. And the food on the table is often as casual as the conversation.
It's good, hearty fare (think meatloaf, pot pie, mac and cheese) that will
keep everyone going until that last diner heads off into the night.
"At family meal, there's no hierarchy," says Seattle chef Tom Douglas of
Dahlia Lounge. "You're breaking bread with your friends. For those 30
minutes, everyone is equal—and hungry."
Mio Kitchen Wine Bar, Pittsburgh
Chef-owner
Matthew Porco sees family meal as a good challenge for his cooks. "It's like
being at home, opening the fridge, and figuring out what to make for dinner,"
he says. Depending on what's in the pantry and who's cooking, the staff can
expect veal with rice, pasta with homemade meat sauce, or the employee
favorite: macaroni and cheese spiked with a little pancetta.
Angus Meatloaf with Crushed Yukon Gold Potatoes and Bibb Salad
Restaurant Le Rêve, San Antonio
Chef Andrew
Weissman is serious about his family meal. "The quality is the same as what
we'd serve to our guests," he says. To make sure that happens, Weissman
chooses the family meal entrée, assigns a cook to prepare it, and then
expects that cook to deliver—no matter how humble the dish. "Even
meatloaf can be transporting," he says.
Frittata with Potato, Onion, Piquillo Peppers, and Chorizo
The National, Athens, Georgia
Because The National serves both lunch and dinner, the staff whips up two meals. The morning meal is a good time to use up produce and bread from the night before. But these aren't your typical leftovers, as the recipe below proves. The Spanish-inspired frittata was created by former line cook Brian Long, who was faced with a handful of produce, some leftover dressing, and
what happened to be in the pantry.
Asian Fish Fry with Spicy-Sweet
Sauce
Myers + Chang, Boston
The line cooks are
in charge of family meal at this Boston spot, but every once in a while
executive chef Alison Hearn takes a turn at the stove. A few fish scraps and a
love of the fish fry inspired this dish. Hearn makes a quick beer batter,
throws in some curry powder, and finishes it off with a sweet-spicy sauce.
"Family meal all depends on what's in-house at the time," she says.
Chicken Parmesan
Otto, New
York
The family meal at Mario Batali's New York pizzeria often has a Latin spin
(think posole). But when morning sous-chef Antonio Maldonado is manning the
stove, he likes to mix up the menu with an old-school Italian favorite,
Chicken Parmesan. It's quick and easy, and the whole crew is crazy for it.
Bison Shepherd's Pie
Proof on
Main, Louisville, Kentucky
Because Proof on Main is connected to the 21c Museum Hotel, the staff meal
is a little larger—roughly twice the size of staff meals at most
restaurants we talked to. It takes a couple of hours for the cooks to prepare
two meals (lunch and dinner) for about 60 hungry hotel and restaurant
employees. With so many folks to feed, there has to be an organized plan.
Executive chef Michael Paley and his chefs decide on a weekly menu, then stick
with that lineup (including Bison Shepherd's Pie on Wednesdays and pizza on
Fridays) for a few months. Bison shows up pretty frequently in family meal
because the owners of the hotel and restaurant run a buffalo farm just outside
of Louisville.
Chicken Pot Pie
Dahlia Lounge,
Seattle
At Dahlia Lounge, family meal is pretty hearty. Fried chicken, stews, and
the chicken pot pie below are staff favorites. When it's time to eat,
employees fill their plates in the kitchen, then head to Table 53, a big oval
table in the back of the restaurant, for dinner—and discussion. "I love
family meal," says chef Tom Douglas. "It's our version of the
watercooler—but with better food."
Pork Char Siu with Steamed Chinese Buns
Mizuna, Denver
To make sure his staff eats well, chef Frank Bonanno orders ingredients
specifically for family meal. One of his most frequent picks is pork butt, one
of which can pretty much feed his 18-person staff. The cooks like to brine the
meat overnight, then slow-cook it for several hours. Depending on the
seasonings and the sides, the meat can have a southern or Latin influence, or
an Asian flavor, as in the recipe here. The Chinese-style steamed buns were
created by Chef Bonanno himself. He originally made them for family meal but
decided they were so good, they should appear on the restaurant's menu.
Slow-Cooked Brisket Sandwiches with Blue Cheese Coleslaw
Fat
Hen
Family meal at Fat Hen is inspired by whatever the staff is craving. Some
days it's buffalo shrimp tacos; other days it has to be meatloaf sandwiches or
the delicious brisket sandwiches. If the weather's nice, the staff likes to
gather around the picnic tables in back of the restaurant to take a little
break—and refuel. "When you're hungry, you're not concentrating on your
work," says chef-owner Fred Neuville. "A full tummy is a happy tummy."
Carnitas with Grilled Salsa Verde and Tortillas
Table Fifty-Two , Chicago
Chef de cuisine Rey Villalobos's
carnitas recipe really puts the "family" in family meal. He and his mother
perfected the dish and make it for most family celebrations. His work family
is equally impressed by the carnitas, especially when he brings in fresh
tortillas. Villalobos and his staff take turns cooking family meal, so
everyone has a chance to make their favorite dish.