Chef Christopher Kostow of The Restaurant at Meadowood Cooked Us Dinner—and it Was Incredible
One of the things that makes The Restaurant at Meadowood in California's Napa Valley so special is chef Christopher Kostow's painstaking attention to detail. From meticulously composed plates (think tweezers and micro greens) to an intimate connection with what "in season" really means (no dish stays on the menu for long; right now Kostow's using up the last of the region's wild onions) to a carefully curated playlist in the restaurant (his wedding songs; can we get a collective "aww"?), eating Meadowood's food is a totally sensory experience.
So when Kostow and crew brought their Napa-rooted fare to New York City for a stellar evening at our Night Kitchen at BA series, we were beyond excited—and for good reason. The evening kicked off with bottled Negronis flown in from California and a shatteringly crisp black olive meringue topped with whipped olive oil and cress flowers—and we knew we were in for something special.
Jolie Ruben1/24Kostow brought his A-list team: Howard Ko and Alfonso Vasquez, who made sure the night went off without a single hitch.
Jolie Ruben2/24The crew arrived early to set a perfectly precise table.
Jolie Ruben3/24To start an evening, Kostow likes to serve vegetarian-friendly hors d'oeuvres. "It puts vegetarians at ease, and allows them to enjoy without having to explain dietary issues the moment they walk in," he says. Here, black olive meringue with whipped olive oil, white balsamic vinegar and cress flowers: intensely crisp, impossibly creamy, and salty-sweet.
Jolie Ruben4/24Meadowood's bar manager Sam Levy couldn't make the event—so he mixed and bottled just-bitter-enough, herbaceous Negronis for everyone.
Jolie Ruben5/24Negroni o'clock, y'all.
Jolie Ruben6/24Kostow brought pressed kale from Meadowood's garden—it sat on top of vintage cookbooks that functioned as a serving platter for hors d'oeuvres. We're into it.
Jolie Ruben7/24Crisp puffed kale tasted as verdant as it looked—fresh, light, and bright.
Jolie Ruben8/24Kostow tops a kale chip with ... puréed kale, garlic, cumin, and smoky peppers.
Jolie Ruben9/24Kostow (right), surveys the crowd with restaurant director Nathaniel Dorn.
Jolie Ruben10/24Kostow was cool, calm, and collected as he prepped for the dinner—and had plenty of time to chat with guests like William Li, Senior VP of Ralph Lauren Home and Bon Appétit publisher Pamela Drucker Mann.
Jolie Ruben11/24Bon Appétit editor-in-chief Adam Rapoport catches up with Kostow.
Jolie Ruben12/24Asparagus is in season now—Kostow treated it by meticulously peeling and blanching spears, then brushing them with olive oil. The spears were served with sprouted grains and smoked goat's milk. The result? Super fresh, super earthy: Springtime at its best.
Jolie Ruben13/24Frederick Berselius, of BA's 2013 Hot 10 pick Aska, chats with CEO Maria Borromeo of Thakoon and photographer Jen Munkvold.
Jolie Ruben14/24Amelia Lester (left), ____ of The New Yorker, chats with Bon Appétit executive editor Christine Muhlke.
Jolie Ruben15/24Carlo Mirarchi of Roberta's shows Kostow just how much he liked the meal.
Jolie Ruben16/24Aji was given a quick cure in unripe tomato juice, then served with braised artichokes, bonito, and purslane. A green almond-artichoke puree imparted a vibrant green.
Jolie Ruben17/24Serious wow factor: Day lilies filled with spot prawns and brushed with butter, then topped with white sturgeon caviar.
Jolie Ruben18/24Potato purée never had it so good: This version was whipped and dressed with sorrel leaves, a house-infused sorrel vinegar, and dried, seasoned sorrel "nori."
Jolie Ruben19/24Kostow baked rack of lamb in Calistoga clay. The clay keeps it super moist and flavorful—but he suggests hacking the technique at home by crusting meat in salt and herbs.
Jolie Ruben20/24The clay-baked lamb was finished with sunflower seed and sprouts and pickled lime.
Jolie Ruben21/24Castelfranco radicchio was cold-smoked to taste like ham (seriously; and it was spot-on), then dressed with smoked hazelnut oil and sherry vinegar.
Jolie Ruben22/24For dessert? Silken chocolate made from white chocolate, soy milk, and cream—plus the dreamiest, fluffiest panettone we've ever tasted.
Jolie Ruben23/24Roasted cocoa nib broth mixed with white chocolate, and garnished with dates. Officially chocolate heaven.
Jolie Ruben24/24Can we do it all again tonight?
