If the food world, myself included, is guilty of anything, it's overhyping the latest and greatest at the expense of the timeless classics. Which brings me to Swan Oyster Depot, a fish store with an 18-seat counter that just might be my favorite restaurant on the planet. From the minute it opens (10:15 a.m.) to the minute it closes (5:30 p.m.), there's a line. I don't wait in lines, but I make an exception for Swan's cracked Dungeness crab, clam chowder, smoked salmon on rye, and ice-cold Anchor Steam. Food is only part of the allure. There's the look of the place (sports memorabilia, seafood posters, a hand-painted menu tacked to the wall) and the devastating charm of the Sancimino brothers, whose family has run the place since 1946. (It opened in 1912.) Swan isn't a boardroom concept; it's proof that honesty, passion, and hospitality will bring you longevity and fans. It's the kind of restaurant that makes you ask, "Why aren't there more places like this?"
#20: Swan Oyster Depot, San Francisco, CA
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