This latest version of Mission Chinese is all grown up and more ambitious than ever. So, yes, you can still get the famous thrice-cooked bacon, or kung pao pastrami, or salt cod fried rice. But now you can also get a reservation and an entire duck wrapped in lotus leaves and baked in clay, which you can gently crack open with a mallet at the table. And fresh-baked, über-puffy bread developed by Tartine’s Chad Robertson and served with salted kefir butter and a tin of caviar. And a literal tray filled with uni. You’ll eat whatever Danny Bowien and executive chef Angela Dimayuga dream up, on graphic black-and-white-striped plates in an upholstered red booth reminiscent of a Chinese banquet hall among a crowd of chefs and superfans and chef-superfans while a ’90s hip-hop soundtrack plays. And you’ll love it, just like always.
What to order: bread service, steak tartare, salt cod fried rice, beggar’s duck or smoked prime rib
We love: the subterranean bar, which eases the harshness of waiting for a table
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