Let anyone who says he doesn’t believe in miracles watch what Ludo Lefebvre does with a couple of eggs and a barely hot skillet, transforming these elemental ingredients into a just-runny-enough Boursin-filled omelet of (dare we say) sublime proportions. Lefebvre’s Petit Trois is a bistro like few others, a place where classics are turned out with such mastery it’s as if you were eating them for the first time. Here, escargot swim in a pool of herby butter, gougères are undainty puffs the size of tennis balls, and specials like sole meunière remind you why dishes like these became canonized. Did we mention there are no tables (only 22 bar and counter seats), no reservations, and all these marvels take place in a strip mall? Praise Ludo.
What to order: Burgundy escargots, omelet, wild sole meunière (when available), napoleon
We love: sitting by the open kitchen—even if we now know how much cheese goes into the French onion soup
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