220 Bowery
New York, NY
212-837-2370
pearlandash.com
Chef Richard Kuo refreshes the wine-bar formula at this lively, stylish spot, where food (eclectic, inventive, and artfully composed small plates, heavy on seafood) and wine (just as wide-ranging and surprisingly affordable) get equal billing. Kuo keeps things interesting with quirks like ice cream sandwiches made with Fernet-Branca (every bartender’s favorite digestif).
Look For
Bread with “chicken butter” (schmaltz); octopus with sunflower seeds and shiso; porcini potatoes
We Love
Watching wine director Patrick Cappiello sabering bottles of Champagne.