All major airlines fly into Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport. Belleville straddles the 19th and 20th arrondissements. Take the Métro to the Belleville or Pyrénées stops.
- Aux Folies
Next door to the site of a cabaret where Edith Piaf sang, this boisterous bar at the base of rue de Belleville is the perfect place to grab a fortifying glass of inexpensive vin rouge.
8 rue de Belleville; 011-33-1-46-36-65-982. Salon de Thé Wen Zhou
At this tiny, constantly thronged Chinese restaurant, families gather for dishes like smoky duck and noodle soup, ginger dumplings, and pork-stuffed bao that are steamed, then fried to a delectable crunch. This being France, they're called brioche on the menu. Expect a wait and a cheap bill at the end.
24 rue de Belleville; 011-33-1-46-36-56-333. Zoé Bouillon
This little soup joint (you'll know it by the funky dioramas in the window; a recent one showcased Barbie dolls) serves up healthy options in a city of hearty brasserie fare. Lentil soup with Roquefort, grilled-eggplant and arugula sandwiches, bulgur salad, and pastries like orange-flower cake make a perfect picnic.
66 rue Rébeval; 011-33-1-42-02-02-834. Le Baratin
A pilgrimage for Alain Ducasse and other super-chefs, this humble spot tweaks the bistro formula just so: Instead of a standard-issue French wine list, there's a smart global mix. Instead of a Frenchman calling the shots, there's an Argentine woman running the kitchen, turning out updated bistro classics. On a recent visit, we loved the mackerel salad with onions and prunes.
3 rue Jouye-Rouve; 011-33-1-43-49-39-705. Parc de Belleville
At the edge of the area is the hilltop Parc de Belleville, (enter on rue Julien Lacroix). Use the kid-friendly museum Maison de l'Air (27 rue Piat; 011-33-1-43-28-47-63) as an excuse to hike to the top before grabbing a table at café-performance space La Mer à Boire.
1/3 rue des Envierges; 011-33-1-43-58-29-43
Parissweethome.com offers great value—you can pay $476 per week for a place in Belleville.
011-41-41-761-07-06
Before you go, download this story with an illustrated map of the top destinations.