Where to Eat, Drink, and Sleep in Rome, Italy
Forget the romantic image of Roman mammas toiling in the kitchens of down home trattorias. The city’s food scene has evolved and, though a handful of institutions still serve satisfying classics, the best food is coming out of kitchens, ovens, and fryers that aren’t bogged down by a slavish devotion to tradition. And it’s never been easier to drink well in Rome, where quality craft beers, proper cocktails, and outstanding affordable wines are finally having a moment.
Katie Parla is a Rome-based food and beverage educator, sommelier, and craft beer expert. She has written and edited more than 20 books and her food criticism and travel writing regularly appear in the New York Times. She is the author of the mobile apps "Katie Parla's Rome," "Katie Parla's Istanbul," and the blog "Parla Food."
1/13The Hot Newcomer: Romeo
The brains and brawn behind one-Michelin star Glass and the Roscioli baking and gourmet food dynasty have teamed up to create Romeo, a bakery-deli-wine bar-restaurant, which opened in November 2012. Swing by for a quick slice or stick around for a plate of burrata paired with tart and sweet semi-sundried tomatoes, then pasta filled with liquefied Castelmagno cheese. Via Silla 26; (+39) 06 32 110 120; Open daily 9AM-midnight. romeo.roma.it
2/13The Old Standby: Armando al Pantheon
For more than four decades, the Gargioli family’s institution located practically in the shadow of the Pantheon has been serving all the Roman classics, including the best gricia (spaghetti tossed with cured pork jowl and its rendered fat, grated pecorino romano cheese and coarsely ground black pepper) in town. Go for daily specials following the principles of the Roman canon like anchovies and endive (Tuesdays) and soup with pasta and chickpeas (Fridays). Don’t skip dessert. Salita dè Crescenzi, 31; +39 06 6880 3034; Mon-Fri 12:30-3PM & 7:30-11PM, Sat 12:30-3PM. armandoalpantheon.it
3/13The Tasting Menu: Metamorfosi
Columbian chef Roy Caceres and his Swedish sous-chef John Regefalk serve a nine-course tasting menu called Assoporando which pairs Metamorfosi’s classic dishes like deconstructed carbonara and Comacchio eel with their constantly changing seasonal selections. Sommelier Paolo Abballe does a brilliant wine pairing. Via Giovanni Antonelli, 30; +39 06 807 6839; Mon-Fri 12:30-3PM & 8-11PM, Sat 8-11PM. metamorfosiroma.it
4/13The Leisurely Breakfast: Pasticceria Andrea De Bellis
This pastry shop in central Rome, which opened in March 2013, features the sweet and savory creations of Rome-born El Bulli-trained Andrea De Bellis. Try a flaky, buttery pastry for breakfast or stop by later in the day for the city's most masterfully executed sweets, which manage the perfect balance of innovation and tradition. *Piazza del Paradiso 56/58, 00186 Roma, +39 06 6880 5072, Tues-Sun 9AM-8PM. pasticceriadebellis.com ***
5/13The Quick Lunch: Enoteca Provinicia Romana
This wine bar and restaurant just off Piazza Venezia, a joint venture between the County of Rome and a private company, does a brisk lunch of cold and hot dishes. Its location near the Trajan’s Markets and the Roman Forum makes it a handy place to refuel on a plate of pasta. But convenient position aside, the food is excellent. Foro Traiano, 82; +39 06 6994 0273; Mon-Sat 12:30-3PM & 7:00-11PM. enotecaprovinciaromana.it
6/13The Hole-in-the-Wall: Pizzarium
Most of this 270-square-foot pizza by the slice place is dedicated to pizza prep, while the crowded front of the shop displays Gabriele Bonci’s stellar creations. Start with a suppli’ (fried rice or, in a Bonci twist, pasta) and don’t miss the pizza with mozzarella and potatoes, the lightness of which defies logic. Via della Meloria 43; +39 06 39745416; Mon-Sat 11AM-10PM & Sun 1-10PM. xoomer.virgilio.it
7/13The Ethnic Standout: Mesob
One of the greatest restaurants in Rome in any genre, Kuki Tadese’s small Ethiopian restaurant is hidden in a re-purposed parking lot off the busy Via Prenestina. Her home cooking is comforting and consistently flavorful, and she excels at vegetarian stews and the chicken-based doro wot. The long-leavened injera is spectacularly spongy, made with imported tef, and is 100% gluten free. Via Prenestina 118; +39 3382511621; Tues-Sun 8PM-midnight. mesob.it
8/13The Midnight Snack: Ali Baba'
Rome doesn’t have much of a late night dining scene, but when restaurant service ends, head to Ali Baba’ near the Arco di Travertino Metro stop. Ali Baba’ serves an assortment of mezes, fried starters, and shawarma in homemade flatbread all night long. Via Carroceto 96; +39 06 90 21 80 85. kebabalibaba.it
9/13The Can't-Miss Street Cart: Mordi e Vai
The street cart thing hasn’t taken off in Rome because a family with mob connections has the lock down on vendor licenses, so this is the next best thing. Mordi e Vai serves stewed tripe, boiled beef, and sliced tongue on rolls from a stall in the new Testaccio Market, which opened last summer. Mercato di Testaccio, Via B. Franklin 12, Box #15; +393391343344; Mon-Sat 8AM-2:30PM
10/13The Shot-and-a-Beer Dive: Birra Più
At Birra Più, one of the many craft beer pubs in Rome and undoubtedly the best place to drink in Pigneto, you’ll find rare whisky and lots of craft beer on tap and in bottles. There are plenty of limited edition brews on hand, mainly from the US, UK, and Italy. Via del Pigneto 105; +39 0670613106; Mon-Thurs 5PM-midnight, Fri-Sat 7PM-2AM, Sun 6PM-midnight. birrapiu.it
11/13The Mixologists’ Lab: Co.So.
After more than a decade at the helm of Stravinskij Bar, Rome's most luxurious watering hold located in the five-star Hotel de Russie, master barman Massimo D'Addezio has opened Co.So. in Pigneto. Co.So.'s small, contemporary space is decked out in modern furnishings (all of which are for sale) that set the scene for the city's most ambitious cocktail program. D'Addezio and his co-bartender Giorgia Crea mix and stir creative concoctions like the Rome-inspired Carbonara Sour (pork jowl infused vodka, egg white, coarsely ground black pepper, lemon juice, and simple syrup) and Errata Corrige (fortified red wine, Campari, London dry gin, St. Germain, and a splash of Champagne style spumante), Co.So's twist on the Negroni Sbagliato. Via in Lucina 16L; +39 06 6821 0420; Mon-Sat 6PM–2AM;
12/13The Great Cup of Coffee: Scaiscia
In business since 1919, this is one of the few places in Rome that roasts its own beans, which are transformed into superlative espressi. Ask for a caffè ristretto for added espresso intensity. Via Fabio Massimo 80A; +39063211580; Mon-Sat 7:30AM-6:30PM. sciascia1919.com
13/13Sleep It Off: First Luxury Art Hotel
Look past the absurd name and book a room at this contemporary art-filled hotel near Piazza del Popolo. To sweeten the deal, Riccardo Di Giacinto’s one Michelin star All’Oro, just off the lobby, serves fresh twists on Roman classics, while his 0-300 rooftop bar and restaurant offers spectacular views over the city’s skyline. Via del Vantaggio, 14; +39 06 4561 7070. thefirsthotel.com
