Where to Eat and Drink in Barcelona, Spain
Barcelona has earned international bragging rights for its far-out gastronomy (foams! spheres! airs!), but now down-to-earth and, frankly, more soul-satisfying foods are hitting the tables of the moment. Low-key cafés, ingredient-driven fare, and straightforward presentations are the new norm. The return to simpler food may be the one good thing to come of la crisis. Spain’s economic downturn has Michelin-starred chefs trading tasting menus for tapas bars, beachside shacks, and ice cream shops. And those unfussy cocktails—like G&Ts and vermouth and soda—are back in vogue, too. Here, 10 ways to enjoy Barcelona’s modern modest side.
Gunnar Knechtel1/141. Shop Like a Chef
La Boqueria is still Barcelona’s best market—and also its most touristy. The earlier in the morning you get there, the fewer elbows you’ll have to throw at ruthless grandmothers. How to navigate it: Skip the center aisle, where prices are higher. And if you want to be mistaken for a local, take a pass on the juices and spendy cut fruit as well.
Gunnar Knechtel2/14Order the eggs with baby squid at El Quim, the always-packed stall at the southeast corner of the market. Go in the morning or after 3 p.m. for a seat.
Gunnar Knechtel3/14Buy jamón, sliced superthin, plus fresh Catalan cheeses from the Empordà region, from Joan La Llar del Pernil. Go outside for the best vegetables, but be sure to arrive well before 2 p.m., when the farmers pack it in for the day.
Gunnar Knechtel4/142. Say Buenos Días to Breakfast
The morning spread at Hotel Omm—including plum cake and anise brioche, meats and cheeses, Sicilian blood orange juice, and made-to-order eggs—is worth rousing yourself from your designer mattress for. Stick around for lunch or dinner, too, as the Roca brothers (the men behind one of the world’s top restaurants, El Celler de Can Roca, in Girona) oversee those menus at this serene property.
Gunnar Knechtel5/143. Tap Your Inner Dalí
You can’t legally bring jamón Ibérico into the U.S., so instead consider a kitschy blow-up ham from Vinçon.
Gunnar Knechtel6/14Vinçon also has cheap-chic salt cellars, voodoo doll toothpick holders, and all kinds of fun and functional knickknacks (like silverware).
Gunnar Knechtel7/144. Explore the New “It” Hood
The working-class neighborhood of Sant Antoni, near the touristy Gothic Quarter, has gone from sleepy to stylish thanks to the spate of cafés, bars, and vintage shops that have popped up. Most are concentrated on the Carrer del Parlament, including the Aussie-founded Federal, which has a spare, Scandinavian vibe and a rooftop terrace. At night, parties spill out onto the streets. But on mellow Sunday mornings, you can grab brunch (at left), read a book, and wander the charming streets.
Gunnar Knechtel8/145. Sip Vermouth
Stylish twentysomethings have made this fortified wine their go-to aperitif. Head to Morro Fi, a garage-turned-bar, for the house vermouth (on the rocks, with an orange slice) and salty snacks like anchovy-stuffed olives and thick-cut potato chips.
Gunnar Knechtel9/146. Snack in Your Flip-Flops
Make the 15-minute walk from the city center to Sant Sebastià beach, where La Guingueta de la Barceloneta offers an elevated riff on the chiringuito, or snack bar, thanks to Ferran Adrià acolyte Carles Abellán. Think haute hot dogs (get the New York, with pickles and crispy onions) and pizzas like tomato, basil, and sardine. Finish with ice cream from Rocambolesc, Jordi Roca’s hyper-inventive gelateria.
Gunnar Knechtel10/147. Drink a Gin Tónica
Gin and tonics continue to be an obsession for the Spanish, who have put their own spin on the classic cocktail. They serve them in balloon glasses with giant ice cubes and creative garnishes, like tonka beans and cardamom. Every bar in town has a handful of gins, but grab a stool at Ideal Cocktail Bar, which pairs a vintage vibe with the most extensive list around: some 110 gins and 22 tonics.
Gunnar Knechtel11/148. Eat Where Albert Adrià Is Cooking
With five restaurants in his growing empire, El Bulli’s former pastry chef is the hottest—and most prolific—cook in town. Ignore the madcap decor at the big top–like Tickets and focus on the procession of thrilling small plates, like quivering olive spheres, paper cones filled with puffed, saffron-spiced squid chips, and hollow “air baguettes” wrapped in paper-thin slices of Ibérico ham. It’s the best example of Spain’s still-lingering molecular gastronomy movement, which means you’ll need to book a table here well in advance.
Gunnar Knechtel12/149. Go Galician
Don’t even try to tackle the 3,500-label list at Monvínic, the ultramodern wine bar, restaurant, and multilingual library. Instead, just ask one of the six sommeliers to recommend a vino tinto from Galicia. The region, traditionally known for its whites, is turning out surprisingly elegant, complex, and buzz-generating reds, from producers including Algueira and Quinta da Muradella.
Gunnar Knechtel13/1410. Have a Ball
The bomba is to Barcelona tapas bars what a bagel is to New York delis. And the best place to get this deep-fried, meat-filled potato ball is at the tiny, no-frills La Cova Fumada. Go for lunch and squeeze in beside the salty old men.
