This is Cook Like a Pro, in which experts share tips, tricks, and techniques that elevate a good dish to an unforgettable one.
Maybe it’s just me, but when it comes to achieving that perfectly cooked fillet with flawlessly crisped skin—so seemingly effortless when served at a restaurant—something usually goes wrong. The fish sticks. The skin rips. The flesh overcooks. I needed help. So I sought out Donald Link. “I see my cooks screw fish recipes up all the time,” he said, shaking his head (which at least made me feel better). Then he showed me a technique so simple, so reliable, that once you master it you’ll never go out for fish again. —Amiel Stanek
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2 6-oz. fillets branzino or black bass
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
Kosher salt
Starting with parched skin is the key to a pro result—try to cook wet fish and it’s going to steam, stick, rip, and generally be a huge, frustrating bummer. One hour before cooking, put your fillets on a plate, skin side up (no seasoning, please!), and leave them uncovered in the fridge to dry out.
Get a large stainless-steel skillet ripping hot over high heat (2 minutes should do it), then pour in 1 Tbsp. oil and add a big pinch of salt. Once the oil is smoking, take the skillet off the heat and use a handful of paper towels to wipe oil and salt around and out of the pan (be extra careful—you might want to use tongs to hold the towels).
Put your now-seasoned skillet back over high heat and take those beautiful air-dried fillets out of the fridge. Add another 1 Tbsp. oil to the pan and hit both sides of each fillet with a decent amount of salt. Once the oil is shimmering, carefully lay a fillet skin side down in the pan (be sure to lay them going away from you to guard against spatters).
Use a fish spatula (call it a “fish spat” if you want to sound like a pro) to apply firm, even pressure to the fillet until it relaxes and lies flat. Repeat with remaining fillet, then keep at it! Periodically press down each fillet and cook until flesh is nearly opaque and cooked through, with just a small raw area on top.
Slide your fish spatula under each fillet and—using your other hand as a guide—turn it away from you (watch that oil). Remove the pan from heat. At this point you’re just letting the raw side kiss the skillet to finish cooking, about 1 minute. 2 servings
The coolest move we learned from Link? Smoking out the pan. By heating the oil-salt coating, he’s basically creating a temporary nonstick surface—a trick from his days as a short-order egg cook.