Upland
Chef Justin Smillie has a way with pastas. And meat. Actually, Smillie has a way with a lot of food. So hightail it to this sprawling (well, for New York standards) and gorgeous Gramercy hot spot. Dinner may not be the most adventurous meal you’ve ever had, but it sure is solid. Empire-builder Stephen Starr owns the place but gives Smillie plenty of room to make the California-tinged Italian cuisine feel unlike many of Starr’s more cookie cutter establishments. Start with a rather substantial salad; it shares well and makes you feel better about yourself for the carbfest you’re about to have. Someone else paying? Go for the short ribs for two—it’s Smillie’s signature for a reason.
PRO TIP: The estrella pasta (made with chicken livers) is as good as everyone says it is.
THE DETAILS: Lunch (Monday–Friday, 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m.), brunch (Saturday–Sunday, 11 a.m.–3 p.m., and dinner (Sunday 5 p.m.–10 p.m., Monday–Saturday 5 p.m.–11 p.m.).
