In Defense of the New Gringo Taco

Also: Flour tortillas don't suck
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© Erin Kunkel.
Albacore tuna tostadas with crispy leeks chipotle mayo and avocado from Tacolicious in San Francisco

Albacore tuna tostadas with crispy leeks, chipotle mayo, and avocado from Tacolicious in San Francisco (Photograph by Eric Kunkel)

I was raised on tacos made from a kit and the dirt-cheap version from Taco Bell--what some dismiss as "gringo" tacos. It was only as a teenager that I discovered authentic ones made with corn tortillas and filled with carnitas, lengua, carne asada, and barbacoa.

It's important to respect tradition, and don't get me wrong; I love an al pastor taco from a truck. But experimentation can yield awesome results. I'm talking about a new kind of gringo taco, stuffed with fried chicken, smoked brisket, Korean-style BBQ pork belly, or fried oysters. I'm a big fan of these multi-cultural tacos found at stylized, upscale spots like Pinche Taqueria in Denver, Tacolicious in San Francisco, Lone Star Taco Bar in Boston, and Good 2 Go Taco in Dallas.

And get this: Along with their out-there fillings, many of these spots use--gasp!--flour tortillas in addition to those made with the more traditional corn masa. Hey, just because I appreciate authentic tacos doesn't mean I can't enjoy a few stuffed with lamb and couscous. --Andrew Knowlton