The Foodist's Top 25 Food Trends of 2013
The most amazing things Andrew Knowlton saw, heard, and yes, devoured during his 120-day, 26,333-mile, 22-state tour of the country’s best new restaurants
1/2312. Raw Power
Restaurants are giving new life to crudités, a.k.a. raw vegetables, thanks to endless varieties of produce, inventive dips, and—at least at Blue Hill at Stone Barns in Pucantico Hills, NY—stunning serving ware (pictured). Seen at: Lafayette, New York; Jeffrey’s, Austin; Forequarter, Madison, WI
2/231. Fish Heads! (Eat Them Up, Yum)
Why throw away what could be a signature dish? Miso-maple roasted salmon head, fish-head terrine, and both country-fried and grilled hamachi collar are proof that one person’s bait is another’s must-order. (Pictured: The Maple-Miso Salmon Head from New York's Chez Sardine) SEEN AT: Paper Plane, Decatur, GA; A Pig in a Fur Coat, Madison, WI; The Ordinary, Charleston, SC
3/233. Anatomy of a 2013 Restaurant Bathroom
Seems like restaurants are putting as much thought into the restroom as they are into the dining room. I visited the hyper-designed loo at The Pass & Provisons in Houston five times—just to hang out. A) Designer Suds: Boutique soaps from the likes of Malin + Goetz and Further keep things clean. B) Sinking Feeling: Sinks are statement pieces. The farmhouse-style soapstone ones were my favorite. C) Heady Tunes: Restroom-only speakers provide a separate soundtrack. D) High and Dry: There’s something about a terry-cloth hand towel that says, “We care.” E) Gender Benders: Why use M and W when you can ask one of your artist friends to get creative? F) Employees Must Wash Hands: So remind them in a clever way. Foreign languages, pictograms, cool collages—I saw them all on the walls.
©Peden+Munk4/234. The Soundtrack of America’s Best New Restaurants
Man, did I hear a lot of Mumford & Sons. Here are other key tracks on heavy rotation. Anything by The Black Keys; “Tumbling Dice,” The Rolling Stones; “The Hours,” Beach House; “Soul,” Gary Clark Jr.; “Just Like Heaven,” The Cure; “Baby’s Arms,” Kurt Vile; “Hard to Handle,” Patti Drew; “Love Don’t Leave Me Waiting,” Glen Hansard; Anything by Fleetwood Mac
5/235. Cold Comfort
I’m not sure how my wife feels about all the koozies I picked up at restaurants like Two Boroughs Larder in Charleston, SC (pictured), but I know one thing: My beer is always cold.
6/236. The Kitchen Affirmation
Chefs are posting quotes to keep cooks motivated night in and night out. My favorites: "Ride or Die," The Pines, Brooklyn; "Consistency", Grace, Chicago; "With self-discipline most anything is possible," Will, Philadelphia (Pictured: The Pass & Provisions, Houston)
Zach DeSart7/237. Unmatched
Forget word of mouth: I think a smartly designed book of matches is the best marketing tool. Seems I’m not alone. Seen at: The Optimist, Atlanta; Jeffrey’s, Austin; Ava Gene’s, Portland, OR
8/238. Chefs Rekindle An Old Flame
From Uruguayan grills (Pêche Seafood Grill in New Orleans) to Argentine crank versions (King + Duke in Atlanta) to rustic ovens (Bar Sajor in Seattle), wood-fired hearths are very hot. (Pictured: Saison, San Francisco)
Zach DeSart9/239. Drink Up!
I first spotted a Dinuba Water jug at Blue Bottle Coffee in San Francisco, then again at Antique Taco in Chicago. Now I own one for my backyard parties. ($159 for a 15-liter jug; dinubawater.com)
10/2310. The New Lime Slice
This will change the way you garnish everything: guacamole, fish tacos, a Margarita. (No, seriously, it will.) Step 1: Place lime on cutting board like it’s a football on a tee. Step 2: Cut a ½" cross section off each side. Step 3: Squeeze, effortlessly, on pretty much anything.
11/2311. Dining Room Reading
It used to be chefs kept their inspiration to themselves. Now you’ll find it on display in the form of their favorite cookbooks. Here are three recurring classics I spotted on the shelves at Nashville’s Rolf and Daughters, San Francisco’s Saison, and other spots: Noma, On Food and Cooking, and Plenty.
Zach DeSart12/232. Squeeze Play
The plastic squeeze bottle has left the kitchen for a dining room table near you, filled with all kinds of house-made condiments, from hot sauce to fish sauce. Its next move? Going home with you. (Pictured: 2-oz. bottle with cap, $1; thinkgarnish.com)
Zach DeSart13/2313. The Incredible, Spreadable Salumi
‘Nduja (en-DOO-yah), the fiery pork paste from Calabria, Italy, is everywhere. Keep some in your fridge to spread on grilled bread, or toss with steamed clams. ($12 for 4 oz., redapronbutchery.com)
Zach DeSart14/2314. A Sucker Eaten Every Minute
15/2315. Anatomy of a 2013 Restaurant Chef
As rooms have gone more casual, so has the cook’s look. (A) Bandmates: The old-school headband is back. (B) Fit to a Tee: They wear their restaurant’s branded shirt. (They’ll often sell you one, too.) (C) The New Tongs: Pocket essentials: a meat thermometer and tweezers. (D) Strung Up: Designer denim in the kitchen? Yes, if it’s a custom-made apron.
Zach DeSart16/2316. Check Please!
Getting the bill can be a bummer. At least places are getting inventive with how they deliver it. A) Sardine can: The Pass & Provisions, Houston B) Mini clothespin: Lafayette, New York C) Reused can from the pantry: Fat Rice, Chicago D) Stainless-steel tray with custom wax stamp: Saison, San Francisco E) Vintage saucer; The Whale Wins, Seattle F) Handmade mini clipboard: Rolf and Daughters, Nashville
17/2317, 18, 19. Fallback Moves
This year, whenever chefs were in doubt, they’d... ADD MISO Seen at: Daikaya, Washington, D.C.; Hinoki & the Bird, Los Angeles; FT33, Dallas; Rich Table, San Francisco TOP WITH SUNFLOWER SEEDS Seen at: Parka, Minneapolis; Central Kitchen, San Francisco; ABC Cocina, New York PUT IT ON TOAST Seen at: Vernick Food & Drink, Philadelphia; King + Duke, Atlanta; The Whale Wins, Seattle (Pictured: Tomato compote and grilled corn toast from Vernick Food & Drink)
18/2320. Cocktails with a Dash of Wit
Think Sex on the Beach is the height of cocktail cleverness? Check out these creative drink names. Love Oolong Time - Alder, New York Coffee & Cigarettes - Rye, Leawood, KS Love Makes You Feel Ten Feet Tall - Ava Gene's, Portland, OR Last Chance to Lose Your Keys - Ela, Philadelphia Metal Surrenders When Oak Trees Meet Fenders - Bar TNT, Arlington, VA (Pictured: Hey Hey, My My - Ava Gene's)
19/2321. Anatomy of a 2013 Restaurant Bar
The best seat in the house? For me, it’s at the bar, where design got lighter, brighter, and much more modern in 2013. A) GUIDING LIGHT The Edison bulb’s glow has dimmed in favor of sleek pendant lighting. B) PERFECT CIRCLE Lemons, limes, sugar, house-made pickles for a Bloody Mary—there’s no telling what you’ll find in these Deco, Pac-Man-like containers. C) TRAY CLASSY There’s something James Bond–ish about ordering a drink and getting a D.I.Y. kit of ice, mixer, garnish, and spirit—all delivered on a vintage British Airways tray, as is done at Olio in St. Louis. D) SURFACING The heavy wooden bar is (once again) history. Smooth marble surfaces are cooler in every way. E) BUCKET LIST Nothing makes me want to drink wine more than seeing a huge container filled with ice and ready-to-pour bottles.
COPYRIGHT Cedric Angeles20/2322. The Entrée for 2, 4, 6...
I ordered plenty of 42-ounce steaks from non-steakhouses this year. I also saw crisp-skinned duck for two (MilkWood, Louisville), whole roast chicken for the family (Vernick Food & Drink, Philadelphia), and, gulp, an entire lobe of foie gras (The Pass & Provisions, Houston). Pictured: Massive pork rind from The Pass
Zach DeSart21/2323. Big. Cheap. Beers.
First, cans of PBR hit the hipster jackpot at the poshest of restaurants. Now it’s 32- and 40-ounce bottles of less-than-premium brew at places like Uno Mas in Portland, OR (Pacifico), and World Street Kitchen in Minneapolis (Miller High Life).
Zach DeSart22/2324. A Shore Thing
Look what the trend tide brought in! Seaweed is sustainable, nutritious, and packs an umami punch. That’s why chefs are using it like an herb in sauces, batters, and sprinkled as seasoning. Seen at: Alma, Los Angeles; Eventide, Portland, ME; Joule, Seattle Pictured: Irish moss from Maine Coast Sea Vegetables, $7 for 6 oz.: seaveg.com
Gary L. Craig23/2325. 2014 Contenders
Every year, there are restaurants that just miss my cutoff to be eligible for the Hot 10. Here are a few front-runners heading into next year. It already looks like there’s some stiff competition: QUI, AUSTIN: Fine dining from Paul Qui. The place that Texas has been waiting for. TROIS MEC, LOS ANGELES: Ludo Lefebvre finally settles down at this tiny bricks-and-mortar spot. MOTT ST, CHICAGO - The Ruxbin crew’s latest serves Asian street food at communal tables. SERPICO, PHILADELPHIA: Momofuku alum Peter Serpico pairs with restaurateur Stephen Starr. (Photograph by Flickr user Gary Craig)
