Inaki Aizpitarte at Le Dauphin in Paris

An incredibly simple cocktail that, odds are, you’ve never had before.

Okay, so maybe you don’t live across the street from a blooming locust tree—you can still make a killer butter sauce.

For this rustic interpretation of brandade, chef Inaki Aizpitarte uses desalinated salt cod, which is not easy to find. We got great results (and the right texture) by simply using fresh cod, but when it comes to the addictive relish spooned over the top, we wouldn’t dare change a thing.

The hardest part of this recipe is getting your hands on the octopus. Give your fishmonger a few days to order it for you.