Everything You Need To Know To Become A "Mushroom Person"
Beautiful and beguiling, mushrooms are the first ingredient we think of when the weather turns cold and our thoughts go to all foods cozy, savory, earthy, and rich. But even if you spent your entire life studying mushrooms (it's called mycology—look it up), you’d only be skimming the surface. (For example, did you know that the world's largest living organism is a mushroom called Humongous Fungus that spans nearly 2400 acres?!)
But since you're probably not looking to change the course of your life to research mushrooms and instead are just interested in a really tasty pasta recipe, here, have this guide! We'll tell you how to buy them, how to wash them (...or not), and how to cook them so that they’re nice and crispy (yes, we know what you’re really after).
Photo by Chelsie Craig, Food Styling by Yekaterina Boytsova1/7Pick Them Right (But Don’t Pick Them Yourself)
The first, and most important, mushroom rule! Unless you’re with an experienced mushroom professional, don’t pluck mushrooms willy-nilly from the wild. (We all know how that story ends.) At the market or the store, look for healthy 'shrooms: They should be firm and plump, with no signs of wrinkles or slime.
Photo by Chelsea Kyle, Food Styling by Jennifer Ophir2/7High Heat + Plenty of Fat = A Winning Combination
If you “don’t like” mushrooms, it’s probably because you think they’re limp, squishy, spongy, and/or bland. It doesn’t need to be that way. By using a hot pan and more fat than seems necessary, you can give them a good sear, drive off the water (mushrooms are 85–95 percent H2O), concentrate flavor, and get lots of crispy bits. Our entry-level, hater-converting method goes like this: Preheat a big heavy pan, add glugs of oil (mushrooms will absorb a little drizzle in no time) and, when it’s hot, the torn or sliced mushrooms in a single layer. This maximizes pan-to-’shroom contact. Let them cook—undisturbed!—until golden brown (not gray), then season with salt and cook until the mushrooms are deep brown and shrunken. At this point it’s never a bad idea to add a pat of butter and a sprig of thyme or rosemary.
Photo by Alex Lau, Food Styling by Sue Li3/7Brown First, Salt Second
You’ve heard us say “season as you go” so many times you’re considering getting it tattooed on your forearm. But hold up: Mushrooms are the exception. Salt them too soon and you’ll draw out their moisture from the get-go, which will make it harder to achieve the golden-brown color you’re going for. Instead, we recommend salting after the mushrooms are nicely seared but before they’re too crispy. Otherwise, the salt will bounce right off their dry, perfectly cooked surfaces.
Photo by Chelsie Craig, Food Styling by Yekaterina Boytsova4/7We Pray At The Umami Altar
The word umami is tossed around so often it can seem like a gimmick—but in this case, it’s for good reason. Translating roughly to “deliciousness” in Japanese, it’s that rich, savory, tongue-coating quality that lingers on your palate and makes certain foods so irresistible (think Parmesan, ripe tomatoes, cured meat). And mushrooms are umami-packed. So much so that they can stand in for meat in vegetarian versions of our favorite dishes, like ragù, mapo dofu, and larb. Still need some convincing? Just try our Mushroom Carbonara, where cooked-down criminis stand in for cured pork.
Photo by Chelsie Craig, Food Styling by Yekaterina Boytsova5/7Dried Mushrooms Are Always There For You
Long-lasting, versatile, and loaded with concentrated mushroom essence, they’re a pantry workhorse (shiitakes are our standby). To rehydrate, place in a bowl and pour hot water to cover. When the liquid is room temp, drain and chop the now plump mushrooms, then add to braises, sauces, and stir-fries. Or throw them into stock or a pot of a beans from dry: They’ll soften as the soup simmers, infusing it with flavor.
Alex Lau6/7Clean? Yes. Wash? Not So Fast.
ICYMI, wetness is the enemy when it comes to well-cooked, not-bloated mushrooms. Since soaking introduces moisture, it can make their exteriors irreversibly sludgy. The good news? Most grocery store mushrooms are spick-and-span right out of the box. But for any that are not, follow our lead.
Photo by Chelsie Craig, Food Styling by Yekaterina Boytsova7/7Wild Mushrooms Aren't Necessarily Better Mushrooms
Why are some mushrooms $40 per pound while others are $5? That price is an indication of where and how the mushrooms were harvested—as in, a high price tag is not always a reflection of how good the mushrooms taste. Even your run-of-the-mill button can turn into something magical with enough time, heat, and oil! Use our handy list of need-to-know mushrooms to figure out when to spring for the designer 'shrooms and when to use the generic variety.
