6 Tropical-Inspired Recipes That Make Us Forget It's Winter
This gallery is part of 20 Ways to Feel Better in 2020, a collection of our best ideas for getting you to whatever version of "better" feels best to you.
February in upstate New York can be...bleak, to put it generously. The days are short; the nights are cold; the swimming holes and hiking trails that bring out-of- towner energy during warmer months are frozen and buried. But it’s also when Lil’ Deb’s Oasis feels truest to its name. After we’ve trudged through the snow and shuttered the door against the elements, the scene inside this downtown Hudson restaurant feels like a psychedelic mirage: Brightly colored, borderline-Seussian installation art. Jangling cumbia remixes (get their party-ready tunes here!). Servers dancing between tables with platters of ceviche and armfuls of skin-contact Pinot Grigio. You start to sweat—then realize it’s because you just walked into the dizzy-delirious beach party of your dreams wearing a wool hat and scarf.
Chef-owners Hannah Black and Carla Perez-Gallardo carry this vibe through to the menu regardless of season. Heroic doses of acid, small forests of mixed herbs, and blasts of spice are year-round constants but dazzle most when paired with otherwise dour winter fare. “Our whole ethos is to balance the local with the tropical,” Perez-Gallardo says. “When the farm lists get shorter and more monotonous, we draw inspiration from other places.” That means calling upon tropical fruits and sultry sauces like mole, which breathe life into carrots, cabbage, and other Hudson storage crops. “From the beginning, Lil’ Deb’s was about the food and culture of warm places,” Black adds. “It makes sense during the summertime, but it’s even more important during the cold months.” –Amiel Stanek, editor at large
Photo by Alex Lau, food styling by Susie Theodorou, prop styling by Sophie Strangio1/6Salsa Macha with Crudité
It’s one of my favorite sauces in the whole world,” raves Perez-Gallardo of this kicky chile-and peanut-laced dressing. “Crudité gets so French-ified and ranch-ified, and this feels more true to our tropicalia.” It slays on all variety of raw, crunchy winter vegetables, but is delicious on fruits like mango and pineapple as well. Perez-Gallardo loves it with celery: “It takes me to an ants-on-a-log place.”
Photo by Alex Lau, food styling by Susie Theodorou, prop styling by Sophie Strangio2/6Charred Carrot and Daikon Salad with Pomegranate
Photo by Alex Lau, food styling by Susie Theodorou, prop styling by Sophie Strangio3/6Cabbage Slaw with Charred Scallions and Lime Dressing
Photo by Alex Lau, food styling by Susie Theodorou, prop styling by Sophie Strangio4/6Chicken Braised in Charred Lime and Peanut Broth
Straight-up burning ingredients is an easy way to bring summer-y vibes to indoor dishes. “We love char,” says Perez-Gallardo. “We use a lot of charred jalapeño and onion in our sauces. It’s a flavor you get from the grill, so it really speaks to warmer weather.” Do not underestimate the power of a fired-up lime, Black adds. “It makes the juice so much more floral.”
Photo by Alex Lau, food styling by Susie Theodorou, prop styling by Sophie Strangio5/6Mole-Spiced Ribs with Orange and Kombucha
The chefs are always tweaking their punchy mole, changing ratios and adding unexpected ingredients like nutritional yeast when they want more umami. “You can really make it your own,” says Perez-Gallardo. “We want people to have that ‘what the F#%!?’ reaction when they take a bite.” Make extra; this mole is also killer on wings.
Photo by Alex Lau, food styling by Susie Theodorou, prop styling by Sophie Strangio6/6Tropical Trifle with Coconut and Rum
The high-low tension of this very healthyish dessert is peak Lil Deb’s. “Fresh, seasonal fruit and chia seeds paired with dollar-a-sleeve cookies,” says Perez-Gallardo. “It’s very us.” Just remember that there’s a world of difference between good and bad coconut milk; the chefs prefer Thai brands like Aroy-D or Thai Kitchen, which are naturally sweet and free of off-tasting stabilizers.
