I’m not sure when I fell in love with Tex-Mex, but I do remember why. It was the bottomless basket of chips I’d eat until my stomach ached. It was the electric-yellow queso dip my father would inevitably drip on his pants. I’ve been indulging my nostalgia lately, thanks to some ambitious new restaurants. Yes, the meats are wood-grilled and heritage-breed, but don’t worry: Tex-Mex hasn’t gone virtuous. The chalupas are still as crispy as I remember, the enchiladas as blanketed in Monterey Jack. And my routine is always the same: Keep the chips coming, order me another margarita, and don’t touch the plate—it’s very hot! —Andrew Knowlton
As opposed to rojo (made with red chile sauce), green enchiladas—typically filled with chicken or cheese—are cooked in tomatillo sauce. A little sour cream on top never hurt anybody.
Restaurants usually have several variations, indicated by numbers. Can include some mix of tacos, enchiladas, flautas, or tamales, plus refried beans and rice. The move to make if you’re indecisive.
An assemble-it-yourself offering of peppers and onions, sliced meat, and flour tortillas. Go for chicken and beef.
A poblano pepper roasted and stuffed (often with beef picadillo) that’s then battered and deep-fried.
A crispy corn tortilla paved with refried beans and piled with meat or seafood, shredded lettuce, avocado, tomatoes, and queso fresco.
The iconic dip of molten processed cheese, tomatoes, and peppers (best enjoyed when mixed together). Very tasty, very yellow.
The pride of San Antonio! Tortillas are deep-fried until they puff up into crackly-crisp (yet chewy-on-the-inside) shells that cradle fillings like seasoned ground beef or shredded chicken. Several napkins required.