Raw milk—or milk that isn’t pasteurized or homogenized to kill dangerous micro organisms—has been a controversial figure in the dairy scene for several years. Now, it’s about to be on the national debate stage.
That’s because Robert F. Kennedy Jr. has been nominated by president-elect Donald Trump to lead the Department of Health and Human Services, the country's top health agency, which oversees the Federal Drug Administration. Kennedy has said he wants to put a stop to the “aggressive suppression” of raw milk in the US. It’s all part of his larger campaign to end what he says is “the FDA’s war on public health.”
Kennedy’s position on raw milk comes at a time when interest in and consumption of raw milk is higher than ever—despite scientists’ warnings about the very real dangers of consuming it. Data released earlier this year by the market research firm NielsonIQ found that weekly sales of raw cow’s milk have increased between 21% to 65% as compared with the same periods last year. Google Trends data shows that search interest for “raw milk” on the platform is higher than it's ever been.
Proponents praise raw milk’s alleged health benefits and disregard government warnings about dangers that come with drinking it, dismissing them as exaggerated or straight-up false. But the science behind its touted benefits is shaky and the health risks associated with consuming it are very real. Here’s what you need to know about raw milk.
What are the risks of consuming it?
The Centers for Disease Control says that unpasteurized milk can carry bacteria, parasites, and viruses. The milk can come out contaminated (say, the cow has bovine tuberculosis or an udder infection), or it can become contaminated from contact with dirty equipment. “There are no demonstrated benefits to consuming raw milk compared to pasteurized milk,” a representative from the National Dairy Council told Bon Appétit. “Some people have a strong emotional investment in believing so, but scientific research does not validate this.”
What happens if you drink “bad” raw milk? Diarrhea, stomach cramping, or vomiting, and, in rare cases, kidney failure, paralysis, or death. Between 1998 and 2011, there were 148 raw-milk-related outbreaks, 2,384 illnesses, 284 hospitalizations, and two deaths, according to the CDC.
Adding to the concerns, the CDC released a statement in May following an outbreak of avian flu in more than 40 herds of cattle across nine states, stating that “high levels” of the virus had been found in raw milk. “The CDC and FDA recommend against the consumption of raw milk or raw milk products,” it warned. At the time of publication, there have been more than 616 recorded cases in cattle in 15 states. Avian flu isn’t especially transmissible to humans at the moment, but there have been 53 cases in people in the US, 31 of which came from cattle.
“Raw milk is a product that carries a lot of potential risks,” says Meghan Davis, DVM MPH PhD, professor at the Johns Hopkins Bloomberg School of Public Health. “Not just H5N1, but many, many bacteria, including some that can be fatal.”
Although many farmers test their milk for pathogens, Davis says she isn’t confident that testing is broad enough. “I have not seen comprehensive testing that would come anywhere close, given the wide variety of different pathogens you'd need to [test for],” she says.
It’s one set of decisions to take on some amount of risk for yourself, she explains, but drinking raw milk can potentially expose you to diseases that are infectious to others. Specifically, “infants and children, people who are older, [people] who have comorbidities,” she says. “Thinking about their health and safety is also critically important.”
What’s the appeal of raw milk?
Some people say raw milk is worth the potential risks. The Weston A. Price Foundation, a nonprofit named for the early-20th-century dentist who believed strong teeth could be credited to raw milk, is one vocal advocate. The WAPF claims that raw milk is an elixir that can provide beneficial bacteria and digest more easily than other milk, because the lack of processing makes the vitamins, minerals, enzymes, and fats bvbv for our bodies to absorb. (Past studies have shown that raw milk can promote both the increase of probiotics and harmful bacteria; the jury diverges on whether it does digest more easily.) For Sally Morell, president of the WAPF, any risks associated with raw milk are no greater than those associated with any other food. “There is not a food out there,” she says, “that isn't a potential carrier of pathogenic organisms.”
Mark McAfee, CEO and founder of Raw Farms, a raw dairy product distributor, is something of a raw milk evangelist. “Raw milk is like breast milk: non-allergenic, full of good bacteria, the ultimate immune-booster,” he claims. Other advocates have alleged its consumption decreases risk of allergies and asthma in children; little research is available on this, but some studies have supported it.
According to Rebecca Bates of Little Acres Farm in Lovell, Wyoming, which has been selling raw milk for over a decade, those alleged health benefits are a big draw. Her farm now sells more than a hundred gallons of raw milk per week. She says many customers note that although they’ve had problems digesting commercial milk in the past, raw milk doesn’t cause issues. “The people that struggle with milk can drink raw milk,” she says. Her claim isn’t in line with a study by John Lucey, a professor of food science at the University of Wisconsin-Madison, which found “no obvious reason why raw milk could assist with lactose intolerance.”
For Ty Kotz, a private chef based in South Carolina, where raw milk can be sold at farmers markets and retail stores, it’s about flavor. “You really get the terroir of the farm itself,” he says. He suggests raw milk has a richer flavor and higher fat content, noting its flavor is largely based on seasonality and what the cows might be eating at that particular time of year. “When you're used to drinking raw milk and then you have normal milk,” he says, “it's almost flavorless.”
What’s the future of raw milk’s legal status?
With significant health risks come tight regulations. Federal regulation bans the sale of raw milk across state lines. But on an intrastate level, the sale of raw milk varies state-by-state. Most states permit the sale of raw milk in some way, with regulations being updated frequently. In some areas, retail stores can sell raw milk, while in others, it must be sold on a farm’s premises. Other states permit it to be used exclusively for pet food. New Jersey is the only state that outlaws the sale of raw milk entirely.
Morell, of the WAPF, is hoping Kennedy’s appointment will mean changes in the restrictions around the sale of raw milk. “What I would like to see is one of Bobby's agencies,” she said, referring to Kennedy, “issue model legislation for retail sale of raw milk and raw milk products.”
At the federal level, a Kennedy-run HHS could alter or do away with the 1987 FDA regulation over restrictions concerning transport and sale of raw milk across state lines. Davis, the Johns Hopkins professor, says a shift in restrictions could change the trajectory of avian flu in the US, putting consumers, cattle herds, and even pets at risk for H5N1. “If we get movement of raw milk,” she says, “now you have a potentially infectious product being moved across state borders where we’ve been desperately trying to limit movement.”
Still, according to proponents like Morell, the raw milk movement is bigger than Kennedy. She’s “thrilled” about Kennedy’s selection for the post, but adds,“raw milk is going forward whether he's there or not. It's a big freight train.”
This story includes reporting by Juno DeMelo.