How to Make 400 Latkes for Hanukkah

Last year, Morrow cooked 400 latkes for her sister-in-law’s 70-person Hanukkah party. She made the same number for a Hanukkah party in 2008, and she’ll do it again this year. “It’s no big deal. It takes me 12 hours,” she says. “I’ve got it down to a science.”

Four hundred latkes!

She may not wear leggings and a cape, but food editor Selma Brown Morrow is a culinary superhero. She is Latke Lady!

We begged her to share her tips. But Latke Lady is humble. She didn’t understand why you might care to cook 400 latkes. “Who’s going to make that many latkes?” she said. But she was quickly convinced; many of our ambitious readers host huge crowds during the holiday season. Not only did she agree to share tips, but Latke Lady also gave us the ultimate make-ahead latke recipe she’s perfected over the years.

Coming from the editor who wrote most of the latke recipes published in Bon Appétit since 1989, this one’s going to be a keeper.

How to Make 400 Latkes

1. Start a day ahead. Remember, this takes Latke Lady 12hours. When you fry them, you want to cook them just until they are golden brown, not at all dark. Do not drain the latkes. The day of the party, reheat them in a 400° oven until they crisp up and darken further. You may want to flip them once during baking.
2. Get equipped. You’ll need rimmed baking sheets. Lots of them. Once you have fried the latkes, chill them overnight in single layers on these baking sheets. “I use more than a dozen big rimmed baking sheets,” says Morrow.
3. Measure. Even Latke Lady uses a recipe, measures her ingredients, and uses a scale for the potatoes. Your goal is uniformity; you want the potatoes to be predictable so you don’t have some loose batches and some that don’t crisp enough.
4. Work in batches. The Latke Lady preps one batch at a time, which makes about 18 latkes. It may sound counterintuitive, but if you try to peel a huge number of potatoes in the beginning, they will brown.
5. Ask for help. The mass production of Model-T Fords inspired the invention of assembly lines. The mass production of latkes deserves no less. Latke lady has a friend or family member weigh, peel, and dice thepotatoes and onions for her next batch while she blends and fries thecurrent batch.
6. Avoid browning. When peeled, potatoes begin to oxidize and turn brown immediately. One of the tricks to reduce discoloration is squeezing out all of the potato water (See tip \#7). Another trick is grinding the potatoes with onions; they help keep the potato mixture white. More onions are added later for flavor.
7. Squeeze ’em. Once you’ve ground the potatoes and onions, turn the mixture out onto a smooth kitchen towel (don’t use terrycloth) and squeeze the heck out of it. If liquid remains in the mixture, they won’t crisp and color properly. Even if you have squeezed the potatoes thoroughly, once you make the batter, liquids may still collect as the batter sits. So drain the liquid from each spoonful of batter.
8. Season generously. Use kosher salt and always grind fresh pepper.
9. Breathe deep. Open the windows and get ready to smell latkes for 12 hours. Latke Lady’s sister-in-law places bowls of open vinegar around the house to absorb the fry smell. “It’s a serious day of frying," Morrow says. “But we always stop for lunch and have tamales from a local spot in LA.”
10. Mix it up. You’ve got 400 latkes! Serve some of them topped with sour cream and caviar. Serve some as a crisp vehicle for gravy. Switch out the traditional applesauce for a pear or plum sauce. When no one is looking, Latke Lady dunks hers in sugar. As superheroes do.

Don’t worry if the latkes don’t cook to the right color or crispness in the time stated. Skillets, stoves, and other conditions vary. Just keep cooking and turning them until they are to your liking.

• 2½ cups finely chopped onions, divided
• 1 large egg
• 1 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
• 1 ¼ tsp Diamond Crystal or ¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt
• 1 tsp. baking powder
• ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 2 lb. russet potatoes, peeled, cut into ¾" cubes
• Vegetable oil (for frying)

PREPARATION

1. Line colander with smooth kitchen towel. Stir 1¼ cups onions, egg, flour, salt, baking powder, and pepper in large bowl to blend.

2. Place remaining 1¼ cups onions in processor; add potatoes. Blend until potatoes are very finely chopped and mixture is almost a purée (some liquid is forming). Scrape potato mixture into towel in colander. Wrap towel around potatoes and squeeze out as much liquid as possible (at least 1 generous cup). Scrape dry potatoes into egg mixture. Stir until batter begins to moisten and stick together.

3. Heat 4 Tbsp. vegetable oil in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Drop potato mixture by scant ¼ cupfuls into skillet; flatten each latke to 2½–3" round. Reduce heat to medium. Cook until golden, about 4 minutes per side. Transfer to large rimmed baking sheet. Repeat, adding more oil to skillet as needed.

4. To make latkes ahead: Preheat oven to 425°F. Bake latkes until crisp and deep brown, 5–6 minutes per side.
   To serve the latkes right away: Preheat the oven to 325°F. Place latkes on a baking sheet as they come out of the skillet and keep them warm in the oven.

   DO AHEAD: Latkes can be made 2 hours ahead. Let stand at room temperature. Or up to 1 day ahead. Cover latkes on sheets and refrigerate.