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The only thing better than a good recipe? When something’s so easy that you don’t even need one. Welcome to It’s That Simple, a column where we talk you through the dishes and drinks you can make with your eyes closed.
For many chefs, a French-style omelet is a test of true skill. Browning would be blasphemous. The shape should be as tight as a cigar. And the center must be soft-scrambled. This requires some real acrobatics. I’ve been a chef for over a decade and, even so, the idea that an omelet could easily end up in failure is just too much. Luckily Spaniards came up with the best work-around—and it’s called tortilla vaga.
At my restaurant, La Bodega in Asheville, NC, inspiration for tortilla vaga comes from Sacha in Madrid, a cozy restaurant featuring hearty dishes from the Basque Country and Galicia. As soon as the open-faced omelet landed on the table, it was clear this dish deserved a place on our menu. The word vaga translates as lazy, among other meanings. For me, it means that it’s perfect in its imperfection. Without the fussiness and added pressure of the roll, tortilla vaga gives permission to focus on the savory flavor and custardy texture. If that’s lazy, count me in.
The eggs are cooked most of the way through, so that the bottom is just set and the top is glossy and custardy. For a classic French-style omelet, the eggs would be carefully rolled before being plated. But with the tortilla vaga, you just slide the whole disk out of the pan and onto the plate, and you’re done.
Here’s how to make a tortilla vaga at home
If you’re adding toppings (recommended not required), go ahead and prepare those before you start on the eggs. Sauté veggies, pick herbs, whatever you want. La Bodega’s tortilla vaga often features Chistorra (a sausage from the Basque Country), jamón, or sautéed mushrooms, and is garnished with pickled piparra peppers for acidity and all i oli (similar to aioli) for richness. More favorite combinations: smoked salmon with dill, lemon zest, and dollops of crème fraîche; or anchovies with roasted piquillo peppers and caramelized onion.
Once you have your toppings ready, break 3 eggs into a medium bowl. Season with a big pinch of salt and beat the eggs vigorously with a fork or whisk until no streaks of white remain. Set an 8-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat and drizzle in extra-virgin olive oil, making sure the bottom is fully coated.
When the oil is warm, add the eggs. Using a rubber spatula, constantly stir the eggs in tiny circles, and occasionally swirl the pan. The goal here is to break up any clumps and prevent any sticking.
Once the eggs are mostly set, but still liquidy and runny in some spots if you tip the pan, stop stirring. Let the eggs finish cooking, swirling the pan every so often to keep the tortilla mobile. Once the bottom is fully set and pale yellow (you can use the spatula to lift the sides and check), and the top is still soft and glossy, use a spatula to loosen the edges. Slide the tortilla onto a plate, using the spatula to nudge it along if needed. Now add any prepared toppings.