Not to be confused with the Mexican dish by the same name, Salvadoran quesadilla is a sweet-salty cheesecake that’s often eaten for breakfast with coffee, but at Popoca in Oakland, chef Anthony Salguero serves it as dessert. “I’m not a huge dessert person, so it’s perfect for me—the Cotija adds a distinct salty funk that really balances all that sugar,” Salguero said. “I also like that it incorporates sesame seeds, which some people associate with Asian food but are actually a huge part of Salvadoran cuisine.” If you can’t find finely grated Cotija cheese, grate it yourself by pulsing in a blender or using a Microplane. Making the cheese fine is crucial in ensuring that it melts into the cake instead of turning clumpy and rubbery as it bakes.