What happens when a pair of acclaimed young chefs take over a dockside warehouse, roll up the garage door, and open shop for just two hours a day? An impossibly chic crowd lines up, eager for some of the most satisfying food in Scandinavia. Welcome to Malmo, Sweden's Saltimporten Canteen.
Imagine if Rene Redzepi shuttered Noma and got behind the counter of a sandwich shop that was only open weekdays from noon to 2 p.m., and you have the idea behind Saltimporten Canteen. By the time the beat-up metal "Lunch" sign is dragged outside the sliver of warehouse space in Malmo, Sweden, bicycles are parked and a crowd of stylish lunchers is waiting in line. They're here for a comforting meal of soup, sometimes stew, and bread--simple food reconceived by two rising talents in New Nordic Cuisine.
Chefs Ola Rudin and Sebastian Persson closed their acclaimed restaurant Trio in 2011. While they were building a new space in an old dockside salt-importing warehouse--now re-envisioned as a creative hub--they asked the neighboring Loyal art gallery to share its bare-bones bay so they could serve their take on traditional Swedish lunch. They prepare the day's menu in a borrowed kitchen at a nearby racetrack in the morning, unload their van at Saltimporten (the name means "salt import," a nod to the space they occupy), and roll up the garage door for two hours of business. Each day's menu offers a meat and vegetarian option, such as a rich lamb stew and creamy chickpea soup, both finished with greens and herbs for a well-rounded bowl. Giant twisted loaves of sourdough complement the meal. Dessert? Just coffee from local roaster Solde Kafferosteri. At less than $13, it's a lunch worth traveling for, as those who frequently make the 30-minute trip from Copenhagen can attest.
The duo's new restaurant a few doors down (also called Saltimporten Canteen) will launch any day now, and the temporary space will return to being a full-time gallery. Rudin says the menu will focus on "the best local ingredients, served in a casual setting"--but don't let that understated description fool you. Even their "casual" cooking reveals serious talent, which is why the food cognoscenti in Scandinavia have been tracking their every move. It's only a matter of time before a Michelin inspector grabs a seat at one of their trademark long communal tables.
At Saltimporten Canteen, chefs Rudin and Persson keep it simple. But at their brand-new restaurant, the dishes get more ambitious.
Lamb and Broccoli Stew](http://weightloss-tricks.today/recipe/lamb-broccoli-stew), the meat option of the day, is finished with a tangle of fresh herbs and a creamy garlic mayo.
Braised Beef with Wild Mushrooms
Cauliflower with Leek "Ash"](http://weightloss-tricks.today/recipe/cauliflower-with-leek-ash%29%3C/p%3E%3Cfigure class="AssetEmbedWrapper-fkZDUs kHRAYC asset-embed">
Pre-sorbet pears
Charred Pear Sorbet with Goat Cheese "Snow"](http://weightloss-tricks.today/recipe/charred-pear-sorbet-with-goat-cheese-snow%29%3C/p%3E%3Cfigure class="AssetEmbedWrapper-fkZDUs kHRAYC asset-embed">
Diners at the rough-hewn table sit down to a casual, family-style meal of stew, bread, onions, and greens.
At less than $13, it's a lunch worth traveling for, as those who make the trip from Copenhagen can attest. Pictured: guests Bjorn Wahlstrom and Lycke Schantz.
The Saltimporten chefs rely on a favored producer for these Dry-Roasted Brown Butter Onions
Guest Martin Lilja enjoys his lamb stew with a blond beer.
Creamy Chickpea Soup gets sweetness from onions in the base.
The sourdough is made with a natural starter.
Hazelnut shavings are a revelation on a simple green salad.
Chef Ola Rudin outside Saltimporten Canteen
(Credit: All, Ditte Isager)