Where to Eat and Drink in Copenhagen

We go for a ride with Copenhagen's next star chef, Christian Puglisi, to find out what makes him (and his trendsetting hometown) so darn compelling

By Scott DeSimon

October 6, 2014

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Now that you know your wood sorrel from your sea buckthorn, it’s time to get on a first-name basis with yet another game-changing Scandinavian chef: Christian, as in Christian Puglisi, the Sicilian-born, Danish-reared mind behind the Michelin-starred Relæ and Manfreds & Vin. Puglisi spent two years cooking at Noma before opening Relæ in 2010 (the gist: less foraging, more non-Nordic ingredients). His food and aesthetic have influenced chefs from Paris to Houston. (If you’ve eaten charred vegetables and seen leather aprons or silverware drawers, that’s him.) This fall the 32-year-old makes some noise with his first book, Relæ: A Book of Ideas, and third restaurant, Bæst. Before his free time disappeared like so many kroner from a tourist’s pocket (Denmark is not cheap!), we biked around Copenhagen with him to get his picks for how to do the city.

Mikkel Heriba
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The Street: Jægersborggade
Visiting this tidy cobblestoned street, $8 coffee in hand, it’s hard to believe it used to be, well, sketchy. “There was a lot of hash sold in front of Relæ,” says Puglisi, who doubled down on the block with Manfreds. “Now, with all the shops and people, it’s so different.” For in-the-know travelers, there is no better snapshot of what’s happening in CPH.
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On Jægersborggade: Manfreds & Vin
A casual, natural wine–driven spot with a menu of Puglisi’s simple, small dishes like the beef tartare with cress.

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On Jægersborggade: Relæ
Puglisi’s first restaurant. Think Noma minus the local-only dogma. He does two menus per night: a 4- and a 7-course tasting.
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On Jægersborggade: Keramiker Inge Vincents
“She makes these delicate bowls and vases called Thinware,” Puglisi says. “I give them as presents.”

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On Jægersborggade: Ro Chokolade
Well-sourced artisanal chocolates and ice creams in an array of bright colors and flavors.
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On Jægersborggade: Coffee Collective
One of the first places to do the lighter Nordic-style roast. “I’m here all the time,” Puglisi says.“A cappuccino in the morning, espresso all day.”

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On Jægersborggade: Meyers Bageri
Much of the Scandi whole grain bakingtrend is traced back to this tiny bakery, run by one of the founders of Noma, Claus Meyer.
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The Best Dish in the City (Not at One of His Restaurants)
“The turbot with cheese and fennel at Geist is fantastic. Chef Bo Bech’s cooking is sometimes overlooked, and that’s unfortunate. I really respect him. He comes into Relæ and notices things about dishes that no one else does.”

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Read Before Eating
Get a taste of CPH with Puglisi’s cookbook,Relæ: A Book of Ideas(out in November, $50).
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Act Like a Real Tourist
"The kanalrundfart [tour boats in the canal] are a great way to see the city. In summer, watch out for the locals cannonballing off the sides of the canal trying to soak you. It will happen."

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Get Coffee and Cake
"To experience the city 100 years ago, check out Conditori La Glace. Order the classic sportskage layer cake. It’s a lot of whipped cream, but it’s fun."
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Salty Black Licorice
"Want a cheap Danish souvenir? Go to a 7-Eleven and pick up salty black licorice."

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Eat a Danish Hot Dog
"Top with crispy fried onions, raw onions, and pickles. This late-night snack almost disappeared. Now stands like Døp Pølsevogn are using organic sausages."
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Be a Regular
"Ved Stranden 10 is all about wine. It’s downtown, on the canal across from the parliament, so you can sit outside on the water on nice days. The inside is a study in beautiful minimalism."

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Find Some Spice
"Danish food can get boring. Ranee’s serves interesting Thai dishes. I hope good Mexican comes here next. I’ve heard rumors that Rosio Sánchez, Noma’s pastry chef, may be opening a place, but just rumors." [Editor's note: Not a rumor anymore!]
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Drink High
“Cocktail culture has exploded here. I love the people who run the bar Lidkoeb. It’s big—three stories—but it’s got a really mellow, relaxing atmosphere. Try anything made with whiskey.”

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Drink Low
“When I just want a beer, I go to Harbo Bar. Nothing fancy, justas long as it’s ice-cold.”
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Bike Rentals
Rent a set of wheels for about $15 a day (try Bike Rental Copenhagen).

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The Day Trip: Malmö, Sweden
Drive the stunning five-mile-long Øresund Bridge to Malmö. (It’s only half an hour by train, but you’d miss the terrifying/majestic views of the Øresund strait.) “It’s a bit sleepy, but it’s so close that two guys who work for me live there,” Puglisi says. “Bastard has great food and ambience and allows itself to not be so Nordic. There’s a little Italian-French influence.” Schedule your visit to include the lunch-only Saltimporten Canteen (open 12–2). Says Puglisi: “Those guys do delicious, rustic food. It’s amazing to me that in a town as small as Malmö, they fill up with a hundred people for lunch.”