Brian Leatart

Celery root (also called celeriac) is one of autumn's most delicious—but least appreciated—vegetables. Here it adds fresh celery flavor to this velvety first-course soup.

Puntarelle are the inner hearts of cicoria catalogna, a kind of chicory — and one of the greatest treats of springtime in Rome. The hearts are trimmed out of the large heads and cut into thin shreds that curl up when immersed in ice water. Since puntarelle are not easy to find in this country, a mix of Belgian endive and celery serves as a wonderful substitute: Together, they have the same addictive bittersweet-crisp quality.

Fried artichokes have long been associated with the Jewish Ghetto in Rome. Briefly blanching the artichokes makes it easier to bend the leaves outward into the shape of a flower.

This sweetly refreshing summer cooler contains no alcohol, but the wild-berry tea and pureed strawberries give it that sangria color. For guests who prefer their beverages a bit more spirited, B. Smith recommends adding white Muscat or light rum to taste.