Greens Gratin With All the Cheese

Here's a fun party trick: Ask your friends to guess how many pounds of greens went into this supremely cheesy gratin inspired by a recipe from chef Renee Erickson. Three huge bunches of kale (and/or chard) get drowned in garlic- and rosemary-infused cream, then blanketed in cheddar cheese and panko and sent into a hot oven, where they sizzle and shrink. The cream turns into a rich sauce and the cheese gets bubbly-brown; the greens towards the top burnish (kale chips!) but those underneath stay silky-soft. So. Many. Textures! You'll want to use your largest oven-safe skillet for this recipe. But don't worry: If you don't have a skillet that's at least 10" (and preferably 12"), you can wilt down the greens in whatever skillet you do have, then transfer them an oven-safe baking dish and proceed with the recipe.